Sunday, January 15, 2012

Mushroom Soup with Tarragon


Mushroom Soup with crème fraîche.

Mushroom Soup with Tarragon
Blue Heron Kitchen

This soup was the first course of my "New Years M'eve"©. Mushrooms and tarragon, at first thought, seem an unlikely pairing. Mushrooms taste of the soil and tarragon, like flowers. But, they're two peas in a pod.  They merge like two clapping hands (maybe the Vermouth knocks some sense into both?)

I recommend David Waltuck’s mushroom stock from Chanterelle. But, if like me, you find you don't have any on hand, don't think twice about taking the low road and using the newly reintroduced Organic Better Than Bouillon Mushroom base. Cooking should be enjoyable and it should always taste really great. The last recipe someone sent me that they thought was their 'best' was a for a one pot dinner where you browned chopped meat, added a can of tomato sauce, marinated mushrooms, chopped green pepper and shredded mozzarella. We may all be in this together, but as the saying goes, chacun a son propre goût .

And I like it that way, don't you?

Quantities are approximate, but you’ll need:
1-2 carrots (organic preferred)
1-2 stalks celery (organic preferred)
1 large or 2 small leeks, white and palest green parts only
1 lb. fresh mushrooms, sliced (mixed variety, your choice)
fresh (or if you don’t have it… dried) thyme
bay leaf (fresh or dried)
fresh flat-leaf parsley
unsalted butter and extra virgin olive oil (about 2 - 3 Tbsp., combined)
dried mushrooms (your choice … read below)
mushroom or vegetable stock – about a quart
Dry vermouth (French is best)
Dried and/or fresh tarragon
Freshly ground black pepper and salt, to taste (I used Maldon salt flakes from the UK!) 
Crème fraîche for serving (optional, but really good)


In a heavy saucepan with a lid, “sweat” a mirepoix, this one, a mixture of diced carrots, celery and leeks, (just the whites and very pale green part) in a small amount of good quality olive oil and butter (first uncovered, then covered). (I broke in my new All-Clad 3 ½ quart covered saucepan. It’s a winner!)


In a separate saucepan, have your stock going. You can use pre-made mushroom stock, vegetable stock, or get some Better Than Bouillon Mushroom base. Have about a quart of this going and to this, add dried mushrooms (I added Maitake and Hens of the Woods) to fortify the stock. (You’ll remove and discard compost the dried mushrooms before adding the stock.) Add a bay leaf, tarragon, thyme, parsley and any other aromatics you'd like in your stock.



To the mirepoix, add some aromatics, all wrapped up in cheesecloth: thyme, bay leaf, parsley, and continue to cook.



Add about a pound of sliced mushrooms. (I used cremini, portabella and shitake). Turn heat to medium/high and cook, stirring, until the mushrooms begin to lose liquid and no longer appear ‘raw’.  Add your vermouth or some white wine and allow the alcohol to cook off. Throw in a handful of fresh tarragon leaves!



Remove (or if they’re little, strain) the dried mushrooms from the stock and add your rich, hot stock to the mushrooms. Bring to a simmer, add dried tarragon, to taste, grated black pepper, to taste and salt, to taste. (If you’re using pre-made stock or Better Than Bouillon, be careful about salt addition – you’re probably fairly high in sodium already.)



Cook the soup for about an hour and a half – or until you feel it has ‘come together’. Remove aromatics and cool until at least lukewarm (you don’t want to put hot soup into a blender).

Purée the soup in a blender. Or, if you have a great one, use your immersion blender.

Thick and gorgeous mushroom soup.
Return to a clean saucepan and heat, gently. If the soup’s too thick, add some water until you like the consistency. If you want ‘cream of mushroom soup’, add some half and half – but heat it very gently, taking care that it doesn’t come to a boil.

Serve with a dollop of crème fraîche and if you have, some freshly chopped tarragon. (I didn't have any, so I chopped up some parsley.) 

Elegant, comforting, perfect for your own "mevening", dinner for two, the whole fam or as the first course for your next fabulous dinner party.

(Oh, be sure to scroll all the way down. I'm taking my own political poll and would love it if you'd be take part. Thanks.)
Peace and fungilove,
jane





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