Hamantashen
Adapted by Blue Heron Kitchen
from
Joan Nathan’s “Quiches, Kugels,
and Couscous” and
theshiksa.com
Hamantashen are
triangular filled cookies that represent the ears of the
Persian villain, Haman, in the story of Purim. In Hebrew, they're called "Oznei Haman". Hamantashen have become a cookie-standard and can be spotted in bakery cases and are available, packaged in supermarkets, sold year-round. They're great.
The earliest and ‘original’
fillings were probably ground poppy seeds, cooked with sugar and ground into a
paste. But now, anything goes – even chocolate! There are recipes for composed
fillings that combine poppy seeds, dried fruits and nuts and simpler ones (like
mine). You can buy jars of Simon Fischer prune “lekvar” or apricot filling, and they’re really pretty good. You can
personalize them by adding cinnamon and freshly grated orange zest.
This year, I made my own
lekvar.
These cookies require some planning ahead and handwork.
These cookies require some planning ahead and handwork.
If you have young
children, make a prune-tini and have some fun
together!
This cookie is buttery
and worth its weight in shekels. However: if the dough becomes too warm, it will be a flaccid
and impossible to work with.
Trucs!
If you’re not an experienced roller, use the
alternate “3 cups” of flour (amount of flour calls for 2 ½ to 3 cups of flour). The dough will have a little more heft.
First sheet into the oven: no more than half a
dozen to gauge your roll/fill/pinch prowess.
Make sure the dough is thoroughly chilled (if you have the time, opt for chilling it overnight.)
Make sure there’s a a dusting of flour on the
rolling surface as well as on the top of the dough.
You don't need to turn the dough over.
Have a flat metal spatula, thin or wide, offset or straight. Periodically check that the dough isn’t adhering to the rolling surface by slipping the spatula under the dough.
The less you mess with the dough, the better. This is a universal truc.
Transfer the circles to the prepared sheets and if the dough has become too soft to work with, return them to the fridge for just a few minutes before proceeding.
If you've held the circles in the fridge for a while and the dough is too cold, it will crack when you're folding and pinching. Wait until it's pliable.
Don’t let the dough bully you. Make sure you and your kitchen are cool. You’re the boss.
Understanding your cookie:
On Purim “Shalach Manot” is a tradition, the Jewish version of "trick or treat", where
families send food baskets to other families. Hamantashen are frequently tucked into these baskets. On this holiday, children dress up like the super heroes from this historic battle. (I was
always Queen Esther, duh) When my father was little (he grew up on the Lower East Side and in the Bronx), kids went from door to door, trick or treating, for pennies. Instead of "trick or treat for UNICEF!", when the door opened, they'd say (phonetically in Yiddish):
Hont is Peerum morgan is ost! Gib mere a penny and
varf mir a ross!
translated: “Today is Purim, tomorrow it’s
not. Give me a penny and throw me out.”
jane
Cookie Dough for Hamantashen
Ingredients:
10 oz. (2 ½ sticks)
unsalted butter, room temperature (suggestions: Plugra,
Kerrygold, Kate’s, or if in France, stop laughing)
1/2 c. granulated sugar
1 large egg, room
temperature
½ tsp. pure vanilla
extract (try
Baldwin’s)
1 Tbsp. orange juice
2 ½-3 c. unbleached
all-purpose flour
1 tsp baking powder
(aluminum free)
½ tsp. kosher salt
Procedure:
Mis-en-place: (that means to prep) dry ingredients by mixing together in a
medium/large bowl the flour, baking powder and salt. Use a whisk to combine.
Set aside.
In the bowl of an
electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar until combined, scraping down as
needed.
Add the egg, vanilla
extract and orange juice and continue to mix on medium speed until smooth and
creamy, but not ‘whipped’, scraping down, as needed.
Dump in the flour
mixture and mix no more than until ingredients are combined.
Roll out about 18”-24”
plastic wrap and with a spatula, transfer half the dough into the middle of the
sheet. Flatten the dough into a rectangle and bringing the sides of the plastic
wrap to the center and the top and bottom together, you’ll have a package ready
for the fridge. Repeat this process with the other half of the dough.
Refrigerate for a
several hours or overnight.
Prune Filling “Lekvar”
Yield
is for a double recipe. Halve (or double) it!
This is a delicious
filling for cookies, Danish pastries and it can be used as a spread on toast or
in your Greek yogurt! I use it for my Grandma Bessie’s prune roll.
Ingredients:
1 pound dried, pitted
prunes
½ cup water
½ cup orange juice
1” piece cinnamon stick
(if
you don’t have stick cinnamon, after you’ve puréed the mixture add some
powdered, to taste!)
¼ tsp. kosher salt
2 Tbsp. granulated sugar
2 Tbsp. dark brown sugar
1 ½ tsp. grated orange
zest (organic orange, best)
Procedure:
Put all ingredients into
a heavy-bottomed 2-quart saucepan
Bring to a boil.
Reduce to a simmer and
cover. Cook for approximately 20-25 minutes.
Remove from heat,
uncover; and let the mixture cool for about ½ an hour.
Remove the cinnamon
stick and using an immersion blender (or you can pour the mixture into a food
processor, but take care to not over-process the mixture), purée the prunes to
a thick paste.
Cool completely before
using as a filling for Hamantashen.
Refrigerated, lekvar
will keep forever weeks.
Making the Hamantashen:
Preheat the oven to
375ºF. and line several sheet pans with parchment paper (or, alternatively,
butter them.) Have a small dish of water and a pastry brush at hand. If you
don’t have a pastry brush, I recommend you buy one. You can use your finger too. I tried both ways and preferred the brush.
Roll dough to between
1/8” and ¼” thick.
Using a circle cookie
cutter anywhere from 2” to 3” (depends on how big you like your cookies), cut
circles and place them directly on the parchment lined sheets (no more than two
sheets at a time, a dozen per sheet.)
If the dough has become
soft, place the sheets in the fridge to firm up the circles, but if they become too firm, you won't be able to bring it up and pinch it into shape.
Brush the extreme outer
edge of the circles with water (you can do this prior to or after you place the filling on the circle. I tried it both ways with pastry brush and finger. I prefer prior to, with brush.)
Lift the edges up to
form a triangle, gently pinching them together, leaving a small opening in the
center.
Bake either one or two
sheets at a time (two sheets: transfer them, top to bottom and front to back)
for 10 to 15 minutes, until golden brown.
Repeat with remaining
dough.
Cool on racks.
(The
filling retains heat, so be careful, you shouldn't burn your mouth)
Yield is based upon size
of circle, but figure about 3 to 4 dozen.
These freeze well!
24 Feb. 2013
Thanks to my dear friend and former baker in crime, Janet, for her keen eye and loving support.
The first paragraph's explanation of "Oznei Haman" (Haman's ears) has already elicited two comments, both arguing that the three-cornered shape symbolizes Haman's HAT. I've done a little snooping and there are more explanations than hats. One was that until King George III, nobody wore three-cornered hats! Another, "taschen" means pocket. Another? His clipped ears! One more ... the three patriarchs, Abraham, Isaac and Jacob. (Why not throw in the Trinity?!)
You can add to this discussion in the comment section below!
jane
These freeze well!
24 Feb. 2013
Thanks to my dear friend and former baker in crime, Janet, for her keen eye and loving support.
The first paragraph's explanation of "Oznei Haman" (Haman's ears) has already elicited two comments, both arguing that the three-cornered shape symbolizes Haman's HAT. I've done a little snooping and there are more explanations than hats. One was that until King George III, nobody wore three-cornered hats! Another, "taschen" means pocket. Another? His clipped ears! One more ... the three patriarchs, Abraham, Isaac and Jacob. (Why not throw in the Trinity?!)
You can add to this discussion in the comment section below!
jane