Hamantashen

Hamantashen

Adapted by Blue Heron Kitchen from

Joan Nathan’s “Quiches, Kugels, and Couscous” and

theshiksa.com

Hamantashen are triangular filled cookies that represent the ears of the Persian villain, Haman, in the story of Purim. In Hebrew, they're called "Oznei Haman".  Hamantashen have become a cookie-standard and can be spotted in bakery cases and are available, packaged in supermarkets, sold year-round. They're great. 

The earliest and ‘original’ fillings were probably ground poppy seeds, cooked with sugar and ground into a paste. But now, anything goes – even chocolate! There are recipes for composed fillings that combine poppy seeds, dried fruits and nuts and simpler ones (like mine). You can buy jars of Simon Fischer prune “lekvar” or apricot filling, and they’re really pretty good. You can personalize them by adding cinnamon and freshly grated orange zest.

This year, I made my own lekvar.

These cookies require some planning ahead and handwork.

If you have young children, make a prune-tini and have some fun together!

Leave ample time for the dough to get cold (at least a few hours, or preferably overnight). If you’re making the prune lekvar, same. Don’t use warm filling when forming the Hamantashen.

This cookie is buttery and worth its weight in shekels. However: if the dough becomes too warm, it will be a flaccid and impossible to work with.

Trucs!

    

If you’re not an experienced roller, use the alternate “3 cups” of flour (amount of flour calls for 2 ½ to 3 cups of flour). The dough will have a little more heft.

     

First sheet into the oven: no more than half a dozen to gauge your roll/fill/pinch prowess. 

     

Make sure the dough is thoroughly chilled (if you have the time, opt for chilling it overnight.)

     

Make sure there’s a a dusting of flour on the rolling surface as well as on the top of the dough. 

You don't need to turn the dough over.

     

Have a flat metal spatula, thin or wide, offset or straight. Periodically check that the dough isn’t adhering to the rolling surface by slipping the spatula under the dough.

     

The less you mess with the dough, the better. This is a universal truc.

     

Transfer the circles to the prepared sheets and if the dough has become too soft to work with, return them to the fridge for just a few minutes before proceeding.

If you've held the circles in the fridge for a while and the dough is too cold, it will crack when you're folding and pinching. Wait until it's pliable.

     

Don’t let the dough bully you. Make sure you and your kitchen are cool. You’re the boss.         

Understanding your cookie:

On Purim “Shalach Manot” is a tradition, the Jewish version of "trick or treat", where families send food baskets to other families. Hamantashen are frequently tucked into these baskets. On this holiday, children dress up like the super heroes from this historic battle. (I was always Queen Esther, duh) When my father was little (he grew up on the Lower East Side and in the Bronx), kids went from door to door, trick or treating, for pennies. Instead of "trick or treat for UNICEF!", when the door opened, they'd say (phonetically in Yiddish):

 Hont is Peerum morgan is ost! Gib mere a penny and varf mir a ross!

translated: “Today is Purim, tomorrow it’s not. Give me a penny and throw me out.”

Have a fantastic Purim!

zei gezunt,

jane

Cookie Dough for Hamantashen

Ingredients:

10 oz. (2 ½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature (suggestions: Plugra, Kerrygold, Kate’s, or if in France, stop laughing)

1/2 c. granulated sugar

1 large egg, room temperature

½ tsp. pure vanilla extract (try Baldwin’s)

1 Tbsp. orange juice

2 ½-3 c. unbleached all-purpose flour

1 tsp baking powder (aluminum free)

½ tsp. kosher salt

Procedure:

Mis-en-place: (that means to prep) dry ingredients by mixing together in a medium/large bowl the flour, baking powder and salt. Use a whisk to combine. Set aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar until combined, scraping down as needed.

Add the egg, vanilla extract and orange juice and continue to mix on medium speed until smooth and creamy, but not ‘whipped’, scraping down, as needed.

Dump in the flour mixture and mix no more than until ingredients are combined.

Roll out about 18”-24” plastic wrap and with a spatula, transfer half the dough into the middle of the sheet. Flatten the dough into a rectangle and bringing the sides of the plastic wrap to the center and the top and bottom together, you’ll have a package ready for the fridge. Repeat this process with the other half of the dough.

Refrigerate for a several hours or overnight.

Prune Filling “Lekvar”

Yield is for a double recipe. Halve (or double) it!

This is a delicious filling for cookies, Danish pastries and it can be used as a spread on toast or in your Greek yogurt! I use it for my Grandma Bessie’s prune roll.

Ingredients:

1 pound dried, pitted prunes

½ cup water

½ cup orange juice

1” piece cinnamon stick

      (if you don’t have stick cinnamon, after you’ve puréed the mixture add some powdered, to taste!)

¼ tsp. kosher salt

2 Tbsp. granulated sugar

2 Tbsp. dark brown sugar

1 ½ tsp. grated orange zest (organic orange, best)

Procedure:

Put all ingredients into a heavy-bottomed 2-quart saucepan

Bring to a boil.

Reduce to a simmer and cover. Cook for approximately 20-25 minutes.

Remove from heat, uncover; and let the mixture cool for about ½ an hour.

Remove the cinnamon stick and using an immersion blender (or you can pour the mixture into a food processor, but take care to not over-process the mixture), purée the prunes to a thick paste.

Cool completely before using as a filling for Hamantashen.

Refrigerated, lekvar  will keep forever weeks.

Making the Hamantashen:

Preheat the oven to 375ºF. and line several sheet pans with parchment paper (or, alternatively, butter them.) Have a small dish of water and a pastry brush at hand. If you don’t have a pastry brush, I recommend you buy one. You can use your finger too. I tried both ways and preferred the brush. 

Roll dough to between 1/8” and ¼” thick.

Using a circle cookie cutter anywhere from 2” to 3” (depends on how big you like your cookies), cut circles and place them directly on the parchment lined sheets (no more than two sheets at a time, a dozen per sheet.)

If the dough has become soft, place the sheets in the fridge to firm up the circles, but if they become too firm, you won't be able to bring it up and pinch it into shape.

Brush the extreme outer edge of the circles with water (you can do this prior to or after you place the filling on the circle. I tried it both ways with pastry brush and finger. I prefer prior to,                                                                                                                                       with brush.)

 Place approximately ½ to 1 tsp. lekvar in the center of each circle.

Lift the edges up to form a triangle, gently pinching them together, leaving a small opening in the center.

Bake either one or two sheets at a time (two sheets: transfer them, top to bottom and front to back) for 10 to 15 minutes, until golden brown.

Repeat with remaining dough.

Cool on racks. 

(The filling retains heat, so be careful, you shouldn't burn your mouth)

Yield is based upon size of circle, but figure about 3 to 4 dozen. 
These freeze well!

24 Feb. 2013
Thanks to my dear friend and former baker in crime, Janet, for her keen eye and loving support. 

The first paragraph's explanation of "Oznei Haman" (Haman's ears) has already elicited two comments, both arguing that the three-cornered shape symbolizes Haman's HAT. I've done a little snooping and there are more explanations than hats. One was that until King George III, nobody wore three-cornered hats! Another, "taschen" means pocket. Another? His clipped ears! One more ... the three patriarchs, Abraham, Isaac and Jacob. (Why not throw in the Trinity?!) 

You can add to this discussion in the comment section below!

jane

Glazed Ginger Shortbread

Glazed Ginger Shortbread
Adapted from David Lebovitz by Blue Heron Kitchen

David Lebovitz writes that these cookies were inspired by the Ginger Crunch recipe from a cookbook called “The Edmonds Cookery Book”, first published in 1908. Edmonds is a company in New Zealand that produces baking powder. Please check out David's blog (you can link to it under "The Mother Blogs"). You'll want to subscribe.

If you love ginger and butter (or with options to further enhance flaor with cardamom or rose), you’ll adore these. And Ginger Rogers?  Yuz honors, I rest my case:

The glaze calls for Lyle’s (or other brand) golden syrup. Most U.S. markets are growing up and are selling this wonderful syrup from the U.K. If you can’t find it, try some dark corn syrup. If you’re opposed or don’t have any, you can fool around with honey or rice syrup. Agave’s okay, but it’s kind of runny and thin. If you’re committed to Agave, use the darker one.

Use a 13- by 4-inch (34cm x 10cm) rectangular tart pan with a removable bottom. If you don’t have this size, use one that renders similar area. You can use an 8-inch (20cm) square cake pan or a 20 x 30 centimeter rectangular pan, but if you do, line the bottom with a wide piece of foil leaving an overhang over the sides of the pan, then smoothing the sides and buttering the inside. Once the bars are finished, you should be able to lift the foil (and the bars) from the pan easily.

If the dough is giving you a hard time and won't come together, dampen your hands and knead the dough until it does. (It doesn’t need to be perfect.) Transfer the dough to the pan and use the heel of your hand to press it evenly into the bottom. Remember, you're the boss.

Ingredients:

Cookie base
4 1/2 ounces (9 tablespoons, 125g) unsalted butter, room temperature [it should be very soft - truc: to hasten this process, cut butter into slices.]
1/2 cup granulated sugar (100g) [I used sugar infused and perfumed with cardamom ... see below*]
1 1/2 cup (210g) unbleached all-purpose flour [I use King Arthur brand]
1 teaspoon baking powder [Rumford brand - aluminum free. Be sure it's fresh.]
1 1/2 teaspoons ground dried ginger [Be sure it's fresh. In the U.S., Penzey's is a good resource.]

Icing
2 1/2 ounces (5 tablespoons, 75g) butter, salted or unsalted [if you use unsalted, add a pinch of salt; it’s better with some salt.]
2 tablespoons Lyle’s Golden Syrup [available at better markets, markets with “International” aisles (it’s European!) or online at Amazon.com]
3/4 cup (90g) powdered sugar, sifted
1 tablespoon ground dried ginger

Procedure:

1. Preheat the oven to 375ºF (190ºC.) Butter a 13-inch rectangular tart pan or another pan (see above).

2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, or by hand in a large bowl, make the cookie base by creaming the butter with the sugar until very light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, and 1 1/2 teaspoons ginger.

3. Mix the dry ingredients into the creamed butter mixture until well-combined. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured countertop and knead it until the dough is relatively smooth. (If the dough is dry, dampen your hands to add a bit of moisture.)

4. Press the dough into the prepared pan and flatten the surface.

5. Bake the dough for 15-20 minutes, until it’s light golden brown.

6. Five to ten minutes before the dough is done, making the icing by heating the 2 1/2 ounces of butter and golden syrup in a small pan, then mix in the sifted (ALWAYS sifted!) powdered sugar and 1 tablespoon ginger, stirring until smooth.

7. When you take the shortbread out of the oven, pour the warm icing over the cookie base. Let sit for about 20 to 30 minutes, then remove from the pan and slice while still slightly warm.

I sliced them in accordance with the pan’s fluting, so with this tart pan, the recipe yielded about two dozen fairly thin cookies. You can slice them thicker if you want to, say, sell them in an independent coffee shop.

 * To make cardamom sugar: use a glass jar and pour about 1/3 of the way up with granulated sugar, add whole green cardamom (about one heaping tablespoon), pour another 1/3 of the way up and add another heaping tablespoon. Close the jar and in a few days, your sugar will be infused! The sugar will ‘keep’ for six months to a year. It’s great in recipes like this one, or sprinkled on top of scones or biscuits. 
For rose sugar: follow directions above, replacing cardamom with edible, dried rose buds. Rose sugar is gorgeous. You'll use it in butter cookies, buttercream, meringue and la vie en..xo 

Funginaugural Mushroom Soup, Updated for a New Term

Mushroom Soup with Thyme

Blue Heron Kitchen

Obama has been inaugurated!

Whether you're glad or not, mushroom soup will comfort you and bring you joy through the winter months. Last year, I offered this basic recipe which I made for my New Year's M'Eve. A couple of weeks ago, my friend gave me these beautiful dried Shitakes,  

which potage-fired me up. This one is similar to my New Year's soup, but with a few new twists. If you opt for puréeing it, I won't cry in my soup. Puréeing allows for the addition of milk or cream.

I love David Waltuck’s mushroom stock from Chanterelle. If you don't have any homemade stock on hand, do as I do, and take the low road. The newly reintroduced Organic Better Than Bouillon Mushroom base is a great beginning. I fortify it with dried mushrooms and aromatics. If you have trouble finding the organic one, get the regular one. The organic one has been difficult to find.

Cooking should be enjoyable.

Quantities are approximate, but you’ll need:

1-2 carrots (organic preferred), minced

1-2 stalks celery (organic preferred), minced

1/4 to 1/2 of a red onion, minced

3/4 - 1 lb. fresh mushrooms, sliced (mixed variety, your choice)

fresh (or if you don’t have it… dried) thyme

bay leaf (fresh or dried)

extra virgin olive oil (about 2 - 3 Tbsp., combined)

dried mushrooms (your choice … read below)

mushroom or vegetable stock – about a quart

Dry red wine

Freshly ground black pepper and salt, 

Crème fraîche for serving (optional, but really good)

In a heavy saucepan with a lid, “sweat” a mirepoix, this one, a mixture of diced carrots, celery and red onion, in a small amount of good quality olive oil (first uncovered, then covered). 

In a separate saucepan, have your stock going. You can use pre-made mushroom stock, vegetable stock, or get some Better Than Bouillon Mushroom base. Have about a quart of this going and to this add dried mushrooms (I added ) to fortify the stock. Add a bay leaf, tarragon, thyme, parsley and any other aromatics you'd like in your stock.

Add about a pound of sliced mushrooms. (I used Cremini and Shitake). Turn heat to medium/high and cook, stirring, until the mushrooms begin to lose liquid and no longer appear ‘raw’.  Add some dry red wine, making sure the heat is high enough to allow the alcohol to cook off.

Remove the dried mushrooms from the stock and add the ones that aren't tough to the mushrooms along with your rich, hot stock (and the bay leaf!) to the mushrooms. Bring to a simmer, add some water (about a cup or two) and grated black pepper, to taste. (If you’re using pre-made stock or Better Than Bouillon, be careful about salt addition – you’re probably maxed out on sodium.)

Cook the soup for about an hour and a half – or until you feel it has ‘come together’. Remove aromatics and cool until at least lukewarm (you don’t want to put hot soup into a blender).

Using your blender or immersion blender, purée the soup until it is amalgamated, but still has texture and identifiable items floating around.

This Bamix immersion blender is fantastic. (Click on Bamix for link to Amazon.)

Return to a clean saucepan and heat, gently. If the soup’s too thick, add some additional stock (or water) until you're pleased with the consistency. If you want ‘cream of mushroom soup’, go all the way with purée and add some half and half – but heat it very gently, taking care that it doesn’t come to a boil.

Serve with a dollop of crème fraîche and if you have, some freshly chopped parsley.

Elegant, comforting, perfect for your own "m'evening", dinner for two, the whole fam or as the first course for your inaugural dinner.

peace, love, and forward,

jane

Meyer Lemon Curd

Meyer Lemon Curd

Honoring Huma Bhabha

Adapted from Kate Zukerman’s “The Sweet Life” by Blue Heron Kitchen

Huma Bhaba doesn’t know me; and it’s unlikely that she will ever know me. Experiencing her work for the first time excited me.

Her work is extraordinary. If you live within reach of MoMA’s PS 1 in Long Island City, go.

(And have a meal at M. Wells while you’re at the museum, a culinary slam-dunk).

Thank you to my dear friend, Abby, who brought me four pounds of gorgeous Meyer lemons. Meyer lemons are a cross between lemons and tangerines. Look for them this time of year in the market. If you can’t find them, add strips of tangerine zest to the cooking lemon curd. Kate Zuckerman (pastry chef of the beloved and closed “Chanterelle” in NYC) claims you’ll come close. I would squirt a little tangerine juice in for fun.

The curd can be baked into a tart or stored in the refrigerator in a jar and used as a spread for toast, a filling for mini tartlets topped with a fresh raspberry or a fresh blueberry. Or just eat it with a spoon. It’s that good.

If you like to candy zest, remove the zest prior to squeezing the juice. Make sure that you don’t include the white pith. The rind of a Meyer lemon is thin, so if your peel has pith (say it 5 times fast), simply take a sharp paring knife and scrape it off – simple.

Some trucs that will make this flow:

Have your ice bath ready and waiting (I didn’t need it in a critical way, but it was helpful to set up the curd quickly as I didn’t use mine for a tart.)

If you’re baking a tart, use a Pâte Sucré (Sweet tart dough), pre-bake it and have the oven preheated to 325º F. and have a cookie sheet ready to place the soon-to-be filled tart onto. You’ll place it in the oven and bake the tart until the custard sets, about 10-15 minutes (or when you gently move the cookie sheet, the center doesn’t jiggle.) If you’re using cold curd, you’ll need some extra baking time. This will yield enough curd for an 8” tart.

When separating the eggs, have small snack bags or containers to put the whites (don’t bother if you’ve spilled some yolk into the white) into. Freeze the whites for later. Use them for meringues, angel food cake, finishing biscotti, or egg white omelets (ugh).

Use the best quality butter you can find. Make certain it is fresh. If it smells of anything other than fresh butter, chuck it.

You’ll need a bain-marie, which is a water bath. Take a saucepan, fill it with hot water and place it on the stove and then atop that, place a stainless mixing bowl. Make sure the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water and that steam doesn’t burst out and into the mix. Keep the water at a simmer. If you’ve never done this before, slow and steady wins the race. If your water is really boiling, the curd will cook fast and become grainy. Too slow, and you’ll hate making citrus curd forever; and if you have a weak arm, like I do, you’ll be miserable. Find something in the middle.

If you have one, use a balloon whisk. It creates more air and more volume. If you don’t have one, go buy one. They’re great for beating eggs or cream into that dreamy Chantilly stage.

Use a rubber spatula to push the curd through a fine mesh strainer.

Put the lemon curd into a beautiful glass jar, and you’ve created a perfect gift.

So, why lemon curd and Huma Bhabha? Kismet.

While I wait for the book to arrive from Amazon, I’ll plan to go see the exhibit again. Bhabha’s show is up until April 1^st.

peace, love and (t)art,

jane

Meyer Lemon Curd

Ingredients:

6 egg yolks, size large, room temperature

1 egg, size large, room temperature

½ cup, plus 4 Tbsp. granulated sugar

½ cup strained Meyer lemon juice (about 4 lemons)

Zest of 1 Meyer lemon – in strips is fine. (If you’re using ‘regular’ lemons, opt for tangerine zest)

Generous pinch of salt

9 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature (Plugra, Kerrigold, or French are good choices.)

Procedure:

(Please read the trucs above so you’ll be prepared (mis-en-place). Making the lemon curd will take no time if you have ingredients prepped and ready.

In the bowl of the simmering bain-marie (water bath), whisk together the egg yolks, egg and sugar until mixed.

Add lemon juice, lemon zest and salt.

Whisk (fairly vigorously)  until the mixture has thickened and more or less doubled in volume. This will take 5 to 10 minutes. You’ll know it’s ready when it holds the footprint (whiskprint?) of the whisk.

Remove from the heat and pass the curd through a fine mesh strainer into a bowl.

Discard the zest.

If the curd is still HOT, place the bowl in the ice bath until the curd is warm to the touch. If the curd is already lukewarm, add the butter and with the whisk, mix vigorously, until it is completely incorporated.

The curd is ready to be baked, served or chilled.