Pain D'Épices

Pain d’Épices

Adapted from Flo Braker’s Baking for All Occasions by David Lebovitz

and then snagged by Blue Heron Kitchen

Pain d’épices is a tradition in France at New Year’s. It’s a quick bread infused with aromatic and warm spices. Not particularly sweet, it’s an adaptable loaf. It can be dressed up or down. You can smear some cream cheese or butter or jam (or both) on it, or as David Lebovitz suggests, slice it for “shortcake”, layering whipped cream and berries. Sliced thicker, it’s toast! Have some for breakfast with butter and jam, cottage or ricotta cheese.

Most traditional pain d’épices recipes include dried fruit and alcohol. I like the absence of stuff in this loaf. Flo Braker’s a lovely woman and great baker. About thirty years ago, I took a class with her when her miniatures book was released. She’s a warm and talented baker who understands and writes well for the home baker. David Lebovitz’s blog and recipes are fantastic. He’s a great writer and if you don’t follow his blog, I suggest you have a look at it.

You’ll need a well-stocked spice cabinet. If you don’t have one, this is a great time to begin one. Try Penzey’s (local store or, online for great quality and ease.) Their jars are inexpensive, come with labels; and you can buy spices in bags for much less than in jars. Share the bags with family and friends. Try Vietnamese and Ceylon cinnamons. They’re both wonderful. Penzey’s is a good company. If you have time, read about them.

If you have old spices (more than a year), dump and replace them (the spices and the cologne.) You’ll be astonished when you sniff the difference.

NUTMEG (The hard s(h)ell): The word derives from Latin, meaning “musky nut.” Trees grow primarily in Indonesia, and the outer shell of the nutmeg is a different spice called mace! Myristicin is the chemical found in nutmeg that in large quantities (large quantities) is a hallucinogenic. (Don’t try it – I think you can die from too much of this stuff.) Myristicin has also been found to have some effect in killing cancer cells. It touts health benefits such as antioxidants and other vitamins. Nutmeg is an aphrodisiac! Inexpensive nutmeg graters are easy to find. Penzey’s sells small bags of whole nutmegs. A small amount leaves a giant aroma/taste footprint. Most home recipes require about ¼ teaspoon of nutmeg in a recipe. Grate a smidge over cooked spinach or chard (thanks, Mom!), into ricotta for Italian pasta and sauce dishes; and it’s a magic addition to most Bolognese sauces.

Nutmeg!

Truc: Wrap and rest. Taste improves hugely if you wrap and rest the loaf. After the loaf has completely cooled, wrap well, in plastic and foil. Leave the spices to mull. The loaf will become denser with a rounder spice profile. It’s worth the wait.

If you bought dark rye for the brownie recipe (now, that’s presumptuous!), here’s another use for your rye. If you don’t have rye flour, try whole wheat. I don’t know if you’ll have the same results. Bob’s Red Mill sells small (24 oz.) bags of dark rye flour.

Don’t omit the anise seed. (Deal breaker)

Honey should be of the milder variety. Buckwheat is too strong for this recipe. Clover, Golden, Lavender, Wildflower – all good choices. Spray or coat the inside of the measuring cup with tasteless oil for easy release.

Truc: Avoid grating to the white pith of the orange. Grate using a light hand and stop early before you turn to the next part of the orange.

I strongly recommend that you double this recipe. It’s great to give as gifts and it freezes well.

Warm spices and heady aroma will fill your kitchen and home, welcoming the new year.

Wishing you a year of good scents.

Happy sweet ’16!

peace and love,

jane

Pain d’Épices

Ingredients:

3 ½ c./455 g. unbleached white flour

½  c./60 g. dark rye flour

2 ½  tsp. baking soda

1 ½  tsp. ground cinnamon

1 ½ tsp. ground ginger

¼  tsp. freshly-grated nutmeg

¼ tsp. ground cloves

¼  tsp. freshly-ground black pepper

½  tsp. anise seeds (whole)

2 oz./55 g. unsalted butter, room temperature

1 egg, size large, room temperature

1 c. /340 g. honey

1 Tbsp. finely-grated orange zest

1 c. /240 ml. room temperature water

Procedure:

1. Preheat the oven to 350º (180ºC). Butter a 9-inch (23cm) loaf pan and dust it with flour. Tap out any excess, leaving only a thin coating of flour.

2. Sift together the flour, rye flour, baking soda, the ground spices and salt in a bowl. Sprinkle in the anise seeds.

3. In the bowl of a standing electric mixer, mix together the butter, egg, honey and orange zest. When combined, add water.

4. Add the dry ingredients in three additions, scraping the sides of the bowl making sure all ingredients are mixed together. Remove from mixer and give a few turns with spatula to make sure all is combined.

5. Transfer the batter to the prepared loaf pan and bake for 60 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. The top of the loaf will darken. This is okay.

6. Cool on rack for 10 minutes, then tip the cake out of the loaf pan. Let cool completely before slicing.

Yield: One 9-inch (23cm) loaf

Wrapped well in plastic wrap, this should keep for about a week. It will freeze for a couple of months.