Pain D'Epices for 2021

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Pain D’Épices

Gluten (and Dairy) Free Spice Cake

Adapted by My Little Blue Heron from Les cakes de Laurent sans gluten & sans lait by Laurent Dran

Pain D’Épices is traditionally eaten at New Year’s. This loaf is a warmly spiced honey cake. Sweetness and warmth to usher in the new year is perfect. We're going to emerge from COVID, we have a new president and our first woman of color as vice president, and although we're living in the strangest of times, we're living in the most historic of times, too. It's interesting and there's much to be grateful for. Let's bake!   

Dran’s recipe calls for superfine rice flour. I replaced this with oat and sorghum flours. This combination removes that gluten-free ‘grit’, improving texture and mouth feel. You’ll be astonished that it’s gluten free. This only grit remaining is its spice legs and warmth.

The French home cook doesn’t prepare super-sized cakes. This loaf is smaller than what you’re probably used to baking. The loaf pan you’ll need is 16 x 9 cm (6.3 x 3.5 in inches .. or 6 x 4 should work). Simpler solution: double the recipe and make one large loaf and a small loaf or some cupcakes.

I’ve made this by hand, with a Kitchen Aid and with a Kitchen Aid hand mixer.

You MUST have a kitchen scale that weighs in grams. If you don’t, they’re so easy to get on Amazon. Here’s a link. This one’s $10 American on Amazon.

Guar v. Xanthan? It's an ongoing war. Pick a card.

Oven temperature is 356º F. If you don’t have a digital oven, that’s fine. Set it to 350º F. and the bake may take a bit longer.

A truc that Dran recommends is to slit the cake down the middle. He says that a small, quick slit will help to develop a “big bump”, like a madeleine. 

My experience is that the batter is far too thin to slit when you begin the bake, so you can make your “petite incision” once the cake or cakes are firm enough to do so. (My loaves develop big bumps sans the petite incisions.) 

MLBH Trucs: 

Use organic expeller pressed refined coconut oil (Spectrum brand is lovely). Your cake won't taste like coconut.

Gluten free baking is better in dark loaf pans. 

I prefer Julia Child’s recipe for equal amounts of cinnamon, cloves and mace. I like dark (try buckwheat) honey. It’ll complement the flour, and round out the warm spices. If you don’t have buckwheat honey, use whatever you have. 

In New York, daylight is at a minimum. It’s cold. Snow's coming. We're all inside and staying safe from COVID. Fill your home with fragrant spices and welcome 2021 with our new president and VICE PRESIDENT!, good health, warmth and love. 

d’épeace, be well, safe, happy and always love, love all ways,

jane

🎡

Pain D’Épices

Preparation: 

Using spray release or a neutral oil, coat the baking pans well.

Preheat the oven to 356º F. (see note above.)  

Ingredients: 

25 g. oat flour

25 g. sorghum flour

25 g. potato starch

35 g. buckwheat flour

4 g. baking powder (aluminum free is best)

1 gram guar or xanthan gum

60 g. dark brown sugar 

1 tsp. ground cinnamon

1 tsp. ground cloves

1 tsp. ground mace*(see below for spice mix closer to Julia's!)

1/4 tsp. Kosher salt 

1 egg, size large (about 50 grams) at room temperature

110 g. water, room temperature (approx.. ½ c.)

85 g. honey, buckwheat preferred

55 g. refined coconut oil, brought to liquid state. Do this in the microwave at half power until melted.

*(Spice mix, closer to Julia Child's, try: 1 tsp. cinnamon, 1/4 tsp. ginger, 1/4 tsp. ground cloves, 1/2 tsp. ground mace - closer to Julia Child's cake.)

Procedure: 

In a medium sized bowl, whisk together all dry ingredients and set aside.

In another bowl (or if using an electric stand mixer, in that bowl), measure out ingredients, and whisk together for a minute.

Add dry ingredients to wet and mix until combined.

Pour into prepared pan(s) and let sit for about 15 minutes before putting into the oven. Bake, depending on your pan(s) and your oven for 30-45 minutes. Bake in the center of your oven. (If baking cupcakes, baking time will be reduced.) If making the 'small incision', when loaf/loaves are firm enough to do so, using a very sharp knife or a rasp, make a quick incision along top and continue baking until cakes are firm, and a tester or toothpick comes with moist crumbs clinging. (But 'just' clinging because you don't want a gloppy pain.)

Remove from oven and cool 10-15 minutes on baking rack before releasing from pans. Cool completely before wrapping. (If you can be patient and wait, give a little time for the spices to settle. The spices will have time to mature.)

Wrapped well, your loaf will keep for a couple of days at room temperature. You can refrigerate it and bring it to room temperature before serving. This is delicious ‘as is’, with ice cream, some fruit, or for a real treat, toast and serve with butter and jam. (I love apricot or raspberry.)

Frozen, it'll keep well for several months. 

Gluten-Free Oatmeal Cookies

Gluten-Free Oatmeal Cookies

Adapted from Gluten-Free Girl by Blue Heron Kitchen

I've been fooling around with this really great gluten-free oatmeal cookie recipe for a while. The original recipe uses coconut flour and dried cherries (and it's fantastic!). But, for St. Patrick’s Day, gimme oats and currants. These are light, crisp, buttery and the dried fruit plays a starring role. 

Ingredients are by weight. Please use your kitchen scale. If you don’t have one yet, take a look at this one (in the U.S.) It's about $11.

If your almond flour isn’t finely ground and you have a Vitamix or a similar kitchen power tool, throw your almond meal into the dry mix container and pulse until finely ground. (Similarly, you can ‘mill’ your own oat flour from oats in a Vitamix!)

Truc: Mis-en-place! Be prepared! – Measure out all your ingredients and have them ready to add, one at a time. This will make you feel like Julia Child – or if don't know what the hell I’m talking about, think your favorite hottie from the TV Food Network or any cooking show you like on television.

These are so good that people who eat wheat will like them. 

In Irish, you’ll shout, “Tá mo Celia sásta!” (“My celia are happy!”) 

In any language, you won’t find a morsel of gluten in these fianáin iontach (fantastic cookies.)

peace, love and Bon folláin!

jane

Gluten Free Oatmeal Cookies

            Blue Heron Kitchen

Ingredients:

160 grams almond flour

20 grams oat flour

1 tsp. baking soda

1 tsp. kosher salt

1 tsp. cinnamon

180 grams (13 Tbsp.) unsalted butter, room temperature

200 grams brown sugar (light or dark, your choice)

150 grams granulated white sugar

1 egg, size large, room temperature

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract (Baldwin’s is a wonderful choice.)

250 grams gluten-free oats (use "old-fashioned" and not "quick" oats)

250 grams dried currants (or raisins) (gluten-free)

Procedure:

Preheat oven to 350º F. and line baking sheets with parchment paper.

Whisk together the flours, baking soda, salt and cinnamon and set aside.

Weigh sugars and set aside.

Weigh oats and set aside.

Weigh currants (or ‘other’ dried fruit) and set aside.

Crack egg into small cup and set aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer, cream the butter, by itself, until light and fluffy.

Add the sugars and continue to mix until thoroughly combined.

Add egg and vanilla and mix thoroughly.

Dump in flour mixture and mix on low speed until it is incorporated, scraping down the bowl, as needed.

Add oats and dried fruit and mix until incorporated.

Using a cookie scoop or two teaspoons, space the cookies about 1 ½” apart on the cookie sheet, leaving them mounded.

Bake for about 8 minutes. Open the oven, and with the back of a fork, gently flatten or “deflate” each cookie.   

Turn the sheet front-to-back and continue to bake for approximately 5-8 minutes, depending on how large your cookies, how accurate your oven; and how you like them ‘done’.

Remove and cool until firm enough to remove from sheets. Transfer to racks to cool completely. Store in an airtight tin.

Yield: approx. 5 1/2 doz. - 2 1/2" cookies








Truc: If you don't want to bake them all at once, freeze the scooped raw cookies on a sheet, lined with waxed paper. Once frozen, wrap well. When you want to bake them off, don't defrost, bake directly from the freezer, adding additional baking time.