Neue Mushroom Ragout

Neue Mushroom Ragout

Adapted from Alice Medrich’s bittersweet by Blue Heron Kitchen

This ragout is famous, sumptuous and is really simple to prepare. It'll please a crowd, it's elegant enough for a fancy dinner party and earthy enough to serve over a bowl of mamaliga. It's fun to make and you can keep it around in the fridge. I think it would be stunning in a fritata, paired with potatoes and/or some gruyere or parmesan cheese. (More serving suggestions below.) 

Serve this as a small starter plate or scoop it into some pre-baked puff pastry shells and put a dollop of crème fraiche over each for a gorgeous amuse bouche. Toss it with some mushroom 'noodles' or pasta (buy fresh noodles at Borgatti's in the Bronx, or at your favorite go-to pasta monger.) 

Mushrooms are magical, earthy, exotic and sexy. And, they're anti-viral!

For 2014, the recipe is refreshed, updated, simpler and better! If opting to finish off with cocoa instead of unsweetened chocolate, save the Hershey's for making chocolate milk or syrup and pull down the good stuff (at less than a tablespoon, be a sport and go with Valrhona cocoa.) 

Asian markets have great varieties of mushrooms at ridiculously low prices. Don't skimp on the quality of your wine. Use a good quality wine. The better the wine, the better this (and any) dish will taste. (And most of the bottle's left for you to enjoy!)

peace, love and happy summer,
jane

Neue Mushroom Ragout

Ingredients:

1 lb. mixed wild (and cultivated) mushroom, such as shitake, cremini, maitake, hens of the wood, pioppini, trumpet, portobellos, chanterelles, cêpes 

About 2 Tbsp. (less) extra virgin olive oil

3 garlic cloves, finely minced

2/3 c. red wine 

Approx. 1/2 tsp. quatre épices (or a combination of ground white pepper, coriander, cloves, and ginger (or cinnamon.)

¼ tsp. kosher salt plus more, to taste

¼ c. water

1Tbsp./4g. grated unsweetened chocolate or approx. 2 1/2 tsp. excellent quality unsweetened dutch process cocoa (Valrhona is my fave.) Truc: If using cocoa, swirl in a tsp. or two of unsalted butter.

Procedure:

Keeping mushroom varieties separate, rub or quickly rinse, dry and then slice to about ¼ inch thick. Compost those tough stems.

Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat and add a tsp. of oil. (If you have a "Misto", pump it up and spray enough to coat the skillet. You don't want lots of oil - the goal is for the mushrooms to brown.)

Add one type of mushroom and sauté, stirring frequently until browned. Scrape them into a bowl and set aside. Repeat this with each mushroom, scraping them into the same bowl. If needed, add a bit of olive oil to the pan before your next batch, but a darkened skillet-bottom is no sin.

Remove pan from heat and let cool slightly. Return to the burner and over medium-low heat, add 1 Tbsp. olive oil and sauté the minced garlic until translucent, but not brown.

Return mushrooms and any accumulated liquids to the pan, add the wine, spices and salt and simmer for a few minutes to evaporate the alcohol in the wine.

Add 1/4 c. water, cover and simmer for 6-10 minutes to cook the mushrooms and release their juices into the sauce. Uncover and stir in the grated chocolate or cocoa (if using cocoa, swirl in a tsp. or two of unsalted butter.) You'll have a velvety sauce.

Taste, correct seasonings.

Serve over fried or soft polenta, any whole grain of your choice, egg noodles, fresh or dried pasta (mushroom noodles are a great choice), in a puff pastry shell with a dollop of crème fraiche, or serve solo, on a small plate, sprinkled with some finely minced parsley or a mixture of fresh herbs - your choice, with or without grated cheese. 

Yield: Serves 2 as a substantial main course, 4 as a small main course or 4-6 as an appetizer