Neue Mushroom Ragout

Neue Mushroom Ragout

Adapted from Alice Medrich’s bittersweet by Blue Heron Kitchen

This ragout is famous, sumptuous and is really simple to prepare. It'll please a crowd, it's elegant enough for a fancy dinner party and earthy enough to serve over a bowl of mamaliga. It's fun to make and you can keep it around in the fridge. I think it would be stunning in a fritata, paired with potatoes and/or some gruyere or parmesan cheese. (More serving suggestions below.) 

Serve this as a small starter plate or scoop it into some pre-baked puff pastry shells and put a dollop of crème fraiche over each for a gorgeous amuse bouche. Toss it with some mushroom 'noodles' or pasta (buy fresh noodles at Borgatti's in the Bronx, or at your favorite go-to pasta monger.) 

Mushrooms are magical, earthy, exotic and sexy. And, they're anti-viral!

For 2014, the recipe is refreshed, updated, simpler and better! If opting to finish off with cocoa instead of unsweetened chocolate, save the Hershey's for making chocolate milk or syrup and pull down the good stuff (at less than a tablespoon, be a sport and go with Valrhona cocoa.) 

Asian markets have great varieties of mushrooms at ridiculously low prices. Don't skimp on the quality of your wine. Use a good quality wine. The better the wine, the better this (and any) dish will taste. (And most of the bottle's left for you to enjoy!)

peace, love and happy summer,
jane

Neue Mushroom Ragout

Ingredients:

1 lb. mixed wild (and cultivated) mushroom, such as shitake, cremini, maitake, hens of the wood, pioppini, trumpet, portobellos, chanterelles, cêpes 

About 2 Tbsp. (less) extra virgin olive oil

3 garlic cloves, finely minced

2/3 c. red wine 

Approx. 1/2 tsp. quatre épices (or a combination of ground white pepper, coriander, cloves, and ginger (or cinnamon.)

¼ tsp. kosher salt plus more, to taste

¼ c. water

1Tbsp./4g. grated unsweetened chocolate or approx. 2 1/2 tsp. excellent quality unsweetened dutch process cocoa (Valrhona is my fave.) Truc: If using cocoa, swirl in a tsp. or two of unsalted butter.

Procedure:

Keeping mushroom varieties separate, rub or quickly rinse, dry and then slice to about ¼ inch thick. Compost those tough stems.

Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat and add a tsp. of oil. (If you have a "Misto", pump it up and spray enough to coat the skillet. You don't want lots of oil - the goal is for the mushrooms to brown.)

Add one type of mushroom and sauté, stirring frequently until browned. Scrape them into a bowl and set aside. Repeat this with each mushroom, scraping them into the same bowl. If needed, add a bit of olive oil to the pan before your next batch, but a darkened skillet-bottom is no sin.

Remove pan from heat and let cool slightly. Return to the burner and over medium-low heat, add 1 Tbsp. olive oil and sauté the minced garlic until translucent, but not brown.

Return mushrooms and any accumulated liquids to the pan, add the wine, spices and salt and simmer for a few minutes to evaporate the alcohol in the wine.

Add 1/4 c. water, cover and simmer for 6-10 minutes to cook the mushrooms and release their juices into the sauce. Uncover and stir in the grated chocolate or cocoa (if using cocoa, swirl in a tsp. or two of unsalted butter.) You'll have a velvety sauce.

Taste, correct seasonings.

Serve over fried or soft polenta, any whole grain of your choice, egg noodles, fresh or dried pasta (mushroom noodles are a great choice), in a puff pastry shell with a dollop of crème fraiche, or serve solo, on a small plate, sprinkled with some finely minced parsley or a mixture of fresh herbs - your choice, with or without grated cheese. 

Yield: Serves 2 as a substantial main course, 4 as a small main course or 4-6 as an appetizer

Spumetti (Hazelnut Meringues)

Hazelnut Meringues

(“Spumetti” or “Little Foamies”)

Adapted from Nick Malgieri (who adapted these from Richard Sax)

By Blue Heron Kitchen

Any formal training I have, I attribute to Peter Kump’s cooking school. Nick Malgieri steered the pastry department and mentored my teacher, with whom I opened a wholesale bakery. I never took a class with Nick, but he was always around. I once heard him gossiping about Maida Heatter. He intimated that she’d hit bottom because she published a cookie book. It wasn’t too long after that his (great) cookie book came out. Why will I never forget this?

Nick’s published recipes are reliable; but all of his recipes at Kump’s were perfect. More, I learned what I consider a wonderful ‘method’. When Peter Kump died, the school closed, relocated to the Flatiron district and re-opened under new management and name, “ICE”, the Institute of Culinary Education. I’ve never taken a class there, but many of the instructors are still the same and Nick is still head of the Pastry division. Check it out if you’re interested in “pro”, “avo” or just a single class. You’ll receive excellent instruction.

This recipe comes from his “Cookies Unlimited” book. These are perfect for your Easter dessert table. If you’re unorthodox about Passover ingredients, and can live with using 10X (confectioner’s) sugar, these are a nice change from the ‘same old’ macaroons. They’re a mixture of chocolate, cinnamon and hazelnut. Meringenius.

When they emerge from the oven, the texture is sponge-like (“little foamies”.)  As they set up, they don’t stay sponge-like. The cocoa/cinnamon will bitter if they're too well done, so don't over-bake them, thinking they'll set up better and "de-sponge" if you bake them longer. They won't. They'll bitter-up.

And don’t be deceived by the cartoonish name. Little foamies are for grown-ups.

Avere una dolce primavera, una felice Pasqua e una dolce Pesach.

peace and love,

jane

Ingredients:

6 oz. hazelnuts, toasted and skins removed

1 cup 10X (confectioners’) sugar

3 Tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder (I used Valrhona.)

¼ tsp. ground cinnamon (make sure it’s fresh!)

3 egg whites, size large, room temperature

pinch of kosher salt

Procedure:

Preheat oven to 350º F. Rack in upper and lower third of oven.

If you need to skin the hazelnuts, place on jelly roll pan and toast them for 5-8 minutes until skins are brown. Put hazelnuts in a rough tea towel and rub them rigorously. The skins will come away from the nuts. Any skins that don’t – don’t sweat it.

Line a couple of baking sheets with parchment paper.

Coarsely chop hazelnuts. You can use a food processor. Or you can do this by hand. I have a hand nut grinder and grind them on the “coarse” setting.

Sift together: ¼ cup of the 10X sugar, the cinnamon and the cocoa powder and set aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer (Take care that there is no fat in the bowl or on the whisk, or your whites won’t come up to a meringue. Similarly, if any yolk comes into the white when you separate your eggs, dump that egg. It will ruin the meringue.) beat the three egg whites until foamy. Add a pinch of salt (be generous) and continue to beat until they begin to stiffen.

One tablespoon at a time, add the remaining ¾ of a cup of 10X until you have a stiff meringue.

Remove from the stand and by hand, fold in the sifted mixture of 10X, cocoa and cinnamon until fully incorporated. Be patient.

Fold in the hazelnuts.

By tablespoonful, drop onto cookie sheets.

Bake for approximately 20 minutes, half way through, rotate sheets, top to bottom, front to back.

These will still be soft and spongy when you remove them from the oven.

Cool completely and then store the macaroons between sheets of parchment or waxed paper in a container with a tight fitting cover.

Yield: approx. 30 cookies

"Filbertella" Dairy-Free Chocolate Hazelnut Butter

Filbertella

(Vegan Hazelnut Chocolate Butter)

Adapted from Vitamix by Blue Heron Kitchen

If you own a Vitamix or a similar quality blender (or if you’ve been given one during this holiday season), take a break from smoothies and plain nut butters. Here’s a seriously indulgent, gift-giving-worthy, dairy-free killer chocolate nut-butter.

Making the hard caramel candy is a cinch. If you have a Silpat (silicone baking pad), even cinchier. If you don’t have silicone, line a jelly roll pan with parchment paper (or foil). Truc: as the syrup begins to darken and turn a nice, rich, golden caramel color, remove it from the burner. Here is a situation where time keeps on slippin’ into the future. Because it’s so bloody hot, sugar syrup temperature continues to rise, even off the burner. And for goodness sake, don’t text while you make candy. Pour it onto the sheet and quickly tilt to allow it to spread thinly. It’ll be quick to cool and will be perfectly crisp.

(FYI: This is the beginning of making praline! – from here, you’d stir in nuts to the caramel, spread it out, cool it and grind it up! – then, fold your praline into meringue for a divine nut meringue !)

Use excellent quality hazelnuts. If you can find Italian hazelnuts that are already skinned and roasted, you’ll be doing the Teaberry shuffle while your Vitamix rolls up its sleeves. I found them at Fairway. There’s a great Italian market in Chelsea Market .. or go to Arthur Avenue (and have a slice at Full Moon.) Mis en place and roast and skin them a day or two or three before. I keep a jar of skinned hazelnuts in my kitchen at all times. You should too. Granted, this is a larger quantity than a jar. But it’s yontif and nothing is small this time of year.

For cocoa, I recommend Valrhona or Guittard for the finest chocolate flavor. I opted for some lovely French walnut oil. You can use hazelnut oil. If you have neither, use a flavorless or 'fruity' oil. Extra virgin olive oil will be too heavy. Always use excellent quality, pure vanilla extract. I always use Baldwin’s. Always use excellent quality ingredients.

This is a unique and splendid gift. Bring it to your host with an excellent baguette or with a dozen croissants. Bag up a small jar with a breakfast brioche as you say goodbye to your holiday party guests.

Or treat yourself and your family: smear it on bread, on bananas or apples, spoon some on pancakes, waffles or French toast, or lighten it with whipped cream (oops, there goes the vegan) and pipe it into cream puffs. Sandwich it between two plain cookies, or use it as the chocolate for s’mores. Then, there’s the spoon approach.

You may never buy another jar of Nutella again.

This one’s for my long-gone Wheaten Terrier, Hazel.

peace and love,

jane

Ingredients:

1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar

½  cup (120 ml) water

4 cups (540 g) raw hazelnuts (or toasted/skinned hazelnuts and skip steps 1,2 and 3)

½  cup (43 g) unsweetened cocoa powder (Valrhona or Guittard recommended)

1 ½  tsp. pure vanilla extract (I recommend Baldwin’s)

2 Tbsp. (30 ml) walnut or hazelnut oil

pinch of kosher salt

Procedure:

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).

1.    Place hazelnuts in a single layer on a baking sheet. Toast in the oven until the skins are almost black and the meat is dark brown, about 15 minutes. Stir the nuts halfway through baking to ensure an even color.

2.    To remove skins, wrap cooled hazelnuts in a clean kitchen towel. Rub until most of the skins come off.

3.    Line a baking sheet with foil.

4.    Combine sugar and water in a 3 to 4 cup (720-960 ml) saucepan. Cover and bring the mixture to a simmer over medium heat. Remove the lid and wipe down the sides of the pan with a wet pastry brush or a scrunched-up paper towel dipped in water. Cover and cook for 2 minutes or until the sugar is completely dissolved.  Uncover and cook until the syrup looks like pale amber maple syrup.

5.    Immediately pour the caramel onto the lined baking sheet. Tilt the sheet to spread the caramel as thinly as possible. Let harden completely, about 15 minutes.

6.    Break cooled caramel candy into small pieces and place into the Vitamix container and secure lid.

7.    Select Variable 1.

8.    Turn machine on and slowly increase speed to Variable 5.

9.    Blend for 15 seconds. Stop machine and remove lid.

10. Add the nuts to the Vitamix container and secure lid.

11. Select Variable 1.

12. Turn machine on and slowly increase speed to Variable 10, then to High.

13. Blend for 1 minute, using the tamper to press the ingredients into the blades. Stop machine and remove lid to scrape down the sides. Continue blending until nuts are free flowing.

14. Add remaining ingredients to the Vitamix container and secure lid.

15. Select Variable 1.

16. Turn machine on and slowly increase speed to Variable 10, then to High.

17. Blend for 2 minutes (or less) using the tamper to press the ingredients into the blades, until you’ve achieved desired consistency.

Chocolate Superstorm Globs

Updated by Blue Heron Kitchen

It’s hurricane season! Make these and have a batch in your freezer for this year’s Superstorm! They’ll last longer than ice cream, the nuts will supply you with protein and the chocolate, with much needed endorphins. You might want to double the recipe because you’ll wind up scarfing a batch down when you see your next LIPA/Con Ed/whatever your power company is bill. We’re paying the piper because we’ve missed the power boat. (Raise your hand if since “Sandy” you now own a solar powered, hand crank radio, an external charger, a better quality, more efficient lighting source … something.) But chocolate counts as alternative power source (do we get tax credit?),

Use excellent quality chocolate. It matters. Use any of these chocolates, and you’ll make any chocolate lover forever yours: Scharffenberger unsweetened chocolate, Valhrona semi-sweet, Guittard chips, Jacques Torres’ dark chocolate discs, chopped.

I have used both nuts, but you can stick to one. Always toast and cool your nuts before you bake. Toast them at 350º F. for about 6-8 minutes, until you can just smell them. Watch them carefully. If they burn, they’re toast. You can play around and try a combination of chopped chocolate, different nuts (the original recipe had walnuts and pecans) and even some dried fruit – try some dried cherries!

These globs freeze very well (until the lights go out). You can bake and freeze them between sheets of parchment or waxed paper (I love waxed paper) in plastic containers, tins or freezer bags. (For anyone with half a chocolate kupf, these are better frozen.)

peace, love and power up (or down),

jane

Ingredients:

5 oz. semisweet chocolate (Scharffenberger or another good quality chocolate)

3 oz. unsweetened chocolate (same as above)

4 oz. 83%, European style butter, at room temperature (Plugra brand is a good one)

¾ c. all-purpose, unbleached flour (King Arthur or Bob’s Red Mill are good brands)

1 tsp. baking powder (I use Rumford)

1 tsp. kosher salt

2 eggs, size large, at room temperature

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract (I use Baldwin’s Vanilla)

1 Tbsp. instant espresso powder

¾ cup granulated sugar

¾ c. semisweet chocolate ‘chips’ (pre-chipped or chopped by you)

1/3 c. toasted and skinned hazelnuts, chopped

1/3 c. chopped almonds (first, toasted and cooled)

Procedure:

Here is where the mis en place brings you great satisfaction.

Carefully measure out all of the ingredients for this recipe. You’ll just dump one thing in after another and this recipe will feel like you’re on one of those shows on the TV Food Network.

1.  Put the semi and unsweetened chocolates and butter in a stainless bowl, large enough to accommodate them and set it atop a barely simmering pot of hot water. Take care that NO steam or hot water meets the chocolate/butter mixture. Stir and melt. Remove and set aside to COOL. It is critical that you allow for the chocolate and butter mixture to cool sufficiently or else you will wind up cooking your eggs.

2.  Preheat oven to 325º F. and line 3 baking sheets or ½ size sheet pans or jellyroll pans with parchment paper. If you don’t have parchment paper (you should get some), grease the sheets with melted butter. Set aside.

3.  In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside.

4.  Using an electric mixer, beat the eggs, vanilla and coffee powder until blended.

5.  Add granulated sugar and blend until thick. 1-2 minutes.

6.  Add the cooled , melted chocolate/butter mixture and blend another minute or two. Scrape down the bowl as necessary. (If you have a silicone beater blade, this won’t be necessary!)

7.  Add the flour mixture, mixing on low speed, until just incorporated. No more than that. Fold in the chocolate ‘chips’ and nuts by hand or with the mixer, on low speed.

8.  Drop the dough by rounded spoonfuls (I use a small measured scoop), leaving a couple of inches between, onto the prepared sheets.

9. Bake, rotating the sheets,  between the racks, turning them too, about 10-13 minutes, until they rise slightly and form a thin crust. Immediately remove the cookies from the sheets (you can leave them on the parchment) and cool on a rack.       

Yield: 24-36 cookies