"Filbertella" Dairy-Free Chocolate Hazelnut Butter

Filbertella

(Vegan Hazelnut Chocolate Butter)

Adapted from Vitamix by Blue Heron Kitchen

If you own a Vitamix or a similar quality blender (or if you’ve been given one during this holiday season), take a break from smoothies and plain nut butters. Here’s a seriously indulgent, gift-giving-worthy, dairy-free killer chocolate nut-butter.

Making the hard caramel candy is a cinch. If you have a Silpat (silicone baking pad), even cinchier. If you don’t have silicone, line a jelly roll pan with parchment paper (or foil). Truc: as the syrup begins to darken and turn a nice, rich, golden caramel color, remove it from the burner. Here is a situation where time keeps on slippin’ into the future. Because it’s so bloody hot, sugar syrup temperature continues to rise, even off the burner. And for goodness sake, don’t text while you make candy. Pour it onto the sheet and quickly tilt to allow it to spread thinly. It’ll be quick to cool and will be perfectly crisp.

(FYI: This is the beginning of making praline! – from here, you’d stir in nuts to the caramel, spread it out, cool it and grind it up! – then, fold your praline into meringue for a divine nut meringue !)

Use excellent quality hazelnuts. If you can find Italian hazelnuts that are already skinned and roasted, you’ll be doing the Teaberry shuffle while your Vitamix rolls up its sleeves. I found them at Fairway. There’s a great Italian market in Chelsea Market .. or go to Arthur Avenue (and have a slice at Full Moon.) Mis en place and roast and skin them a day or two or three before. I keep a jar of skinned hazelnuts in my kitchen at all times. You should too. Granted, this is a larger quantity than a jar. But it’s yontif and nothing is small this time of year.

For cocoa, I recommend Valrhona or Guittard for the finest chocolate flavor. I opted for some lovely French walnut oil. You can use hazelnut oil. If you have neither, use a flavorless or 'fruity' oil. Extra virgin olive oil will be too heavy. Always use excellent quality, pure vanilla extract. I always use Baldwin’s. Always use excellent quality ingredients.

This is a unique and splendid gift. Bring it to your host with an excellent baguette or with a dozen croissants. Bag up a small jar with a breakfast brioche as you say goodbye to your holiday party guests.

Or treat yourself and your family: smear it on bread, on bananas or apples, spoon some on pancakes, waffles or French toast, or lighten it with whipped cream (oops, there goes the vegan) and pipe it into cream puffs. Sandwich it between two plain cookies, or use it as the chocolate for s’mores. Then, there’s the spoon approach.

You may never buy another jar of Nutella again.

This one’s for my long-gone Wheaten Terrier, Hazel.

peace and love,

jane

Ingredients:

1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar

½  cup (120 ml) water

4 cups (540 g) raw hazelnuts (or toasted/skinned hazelnuts and skip steps 1,2 and 3)

½  cup (43 g) unsweetened cocoa powder (Valrhona or Guittard recommended)

1 ½  tsp. pure vanilla extract (I recommend Baldwin’s)

2 Tbsp. (30 ml) walnut or hazelnut oil

pinch of kosher salt

Procedure:

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).

1.    Place hazelnuts in a single layer on a baking sheet. Toast in the oven until the skins are almost black and the meat is dark brown, about 15 minutes. Stir the nuts halfway through baking to ensure an even color.

2.    To remove skins, wrap cooled hazelnuts in a clean kitchen towel. Rub until most of the skins come off.

3.    Line a baking sheet with foil.

4.    Combine sugar and water in a 3 to 4 cup (720-960 ml) saucepan. Cover and bring the mixture to a simmer over medium heat. Remove the lid and wipe down the sides of the pan with a wet pastry brush or a scrunched-up paper towel dipped in water. Cover and cook for 2 minutes or until the sugar is completely dissolved.  Uncover and cook until the syrup looks like pale amber maple syrup.

5.    Immediately pour the caramel onto the lined baking sheet. Tilt the sheet to spread the caramel as thinly as possible. Let harden completely, about 15 minutes.

6.    Break cooled caramel candy into small pieces and place into the Vitamix container and secure lid.

7.    Select Variable 1.

8.    Turn machine on and slowly increase speed to Variable 5.

9.    Blend for 15 seconds. Stop machine and remove lid.

10. Add the nuts to the Vitamix container and secure lid.

11. Select Variable 1.

12. Turn machine on and slowly increase speed to Variable 10, then to High.

13. Blend for 1 minute, using the tamper to press the ingredients into the blades. Stop machine and remove lid to scrape down the sides. Continue blending until nuts are free flowing.

14. Add remaining ingredients to the Vitamix container and secure lid.

15. Select Variable 1.

16. Turn machine on and slowly increase speed to Variable 10, then to High.

17. Blend for 2 minutes (or less) using the tamper to press the ingredients into the blades, until you’ve achieved desired consistency.

Chocolate Superstorm Globs

Updated by Blue Heron Kitchen

It’s hurricane season! Make these and have a batch in your freezer for this year’s Superstorm! They’ll last longer than ice cream, the nuts will supply you with protein and the chocolate, with much needed endorphins. You might want to double the recipe because you’ll wind up scarfing a batch down when you see your next LIPA/Con Ed/whatever your power company is bill. We’re paying the piper because we’ve missed the power boat. (Raise your hand if since “Sandy” you now own a solar powered, hand crank radio, an external charger, a better quality, more efficient lighting source … something.) But chocolate counts as alternative power source (do we get tax credit?),

Use excellent quality chocolate. It matters. Use any of these chocolates, and you’ll make any chocolate lover forever yours: Scharffenberger unsweetened chocolate, Valhrona semi-sweet, Guittard chips, Jacques Torres’ dark chocolate discs, chopped.

I have used both nuts, but you can stick to one. Always toast and cool your nuts before you bake. Toast them at 350º F. for about 6-8 minutes, until you can just smell them. Watch them carefully. If they burn, they’re toast. You can play around and try a combination of chopped chocolate, different nuts (the original recipe had walnuts and pecans) and even some dried fruit – try some dried cherries!

These globs freeze very well (until the lights go out). You can bake and freeze them between sheets of parchment or waxed paper (I love waxed paper) in plastic containers, tins or freezer bags. (For anyone with half a chocolate kupf, these are better frozen.)

peace, love and power up (or down),

jane

Ingredients:

5 oz. semisweet chocolate (Scharffenberger or another good quality chocolate)

3 oz. unsweetened chocolate (same as above)

4 oz. 83%, European style butter, at room temperature (Plugra brand is a good one)

¾ c. all-purpose, unbleached flour (King Arthur or Bob’s Red Mill are good brands)

1 tsp. baking powder (I use Rumford)

1 tsp. kosher salt

2 eggs, size large, at room temperature

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract (I use Baldwin’s Vanilla)

1 Tbsp. instant espresso powder

¾ cup granulated sugar

¾ c. semisweet chocolate ‘chips’ (pre-chipped or chopped by you)

1/3 c. toasted and skinned hazelnuts, chopped

1/3 c. chopped almonds (first, toasted and cooled)

Procedure:

Here is where the mis en place brings you great satisfaction.

Carefully measure out all of the ingredients for this recipe. You’ll just dump one thing in after another and this recipe will feel like you’re on one of those shows on the TV Food Network.

1.  Put the semi and unsweetened chocolates and butter in a stainless bowl, large enough to accommodate them and set it atop a barely simmering pot of hot water. Take care that NO steam or hot water meets the chocolate/butter mixture. Stir and melt. Remove and set aside to COOL. It is critical that you allow for the chocolate and butter mixture to cool sufficiently or else you will wind up cooking your eggs.

2.  Preheat oven to 325º F. and line 3 baking sheets or ½ size sheet pans or jellyroll pans with parchment paper. If you don’t have parchment paper (you should get some), grease the sheets with melted butter. Set aside.

3.  In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside.

4.  Using an electric mixer, beat the eggs, vanilla and coffee powder until blended.

5.  Add granulated sugar and blend until thick. 1-2 minutes.

6.  Add the cooled , melted chocolate/butter mixture and blend another minute or two. Scrape down the bowl as necessary. (If you have a silicone beater blade, this won’t be necessary!)

7.  Add the flour mixture, mixing on low speed, until just incorporated. No more than that. Fold in the chocolate ‘chips’ and nuts by hand or with the mixer, on low speed.

8.  Drop the dough by rounded spoonfuls (I use a small measured scoop), leaving a couple of inches between, onto the prepared sheets.

9. Bake, rotating the sheets,  between the racks, turning them too, about 10-13 minutes, until they rise slightly and form a thin crust. Immediately remove the cookies from the sheets (you can leave them on the parchment) and cool on a rack.       

Yield: 24-36 cookies                      

Fallen Pound of Chocolate Soufflé Cake

(Flour-free)

From David Waltuck’s “Staff Meals from Chanterelle”

Adapted and updated by Blue Heron Kitchen

This cake is almost completely flour-free, save for dusting the pan with flour, so depending on what chocolate you're using, you can make it gluten-free. For dusting the pan, you can use gluten-free flour mix, some brown rice flour, or no flour at all. Try coating the pan with some granulated sugar as if you were making a sweet soufflé. 

This cake is about the easiest and most 'unassuming' flourless chocolate cakes I’ve made. You don't need a bain-marie (water bath) and it's minimalist in ingredients. I like that. It approaches perfection. There's no flavoring other than chocolate and butter. So, make sure you use excellent chocolate (try JacquesTorres’ baking disks - if you click on the link, you can find his stores, or order online).  Today, I combined JT's baking disks and Valrhona, semi-sweet chocolate. Whatever fine chocolate you choose, you'll need a full pound! And then, there’s the butter choice. I use European "style" butter – Plugra. Whatever butter you use, be sure that it’s fresh.  Taste it. If you wouldn't spread it on toast, don’t use it. Nine eggs, size large, room temperature, separated. Make sure that your whites are without yolks. If there's a speck of yolk in the white, you'll be miserable. Your whites won't whip up. Take it one egg at a time. So, bring more than nine eggs to room temperature and if some of them don't separate perfectly, make some eggs or a frittata for dinner.

For an excellent cake, use excellent ingredients and an excellent technique. How you make this is important. Be careful and patient; and if it's not perfect this time, it will be better next time. 

Trucs: Make sure that no steam enters your melting chocolate. Take care that the melted chocolate and butter cools to room temperature. Achieve ‘ribbons’ with the yolks. Don’t beat the whites past ‘soft peak’ or they’ll dry out too much. Fold, but don’t ‘mix’ to assure that the batter is ‘lifted’.  Bake in the center of the oven. DON’T OVERBAKE. Using Guittard "red" cocoa for dusting will achieve the finish in the above photo. I didn't add a second dusting of confectioner's sugar.

Follow these simple steps, and you’ll be a rock star, despite that all you did was melt chocolate and butter and whip up some eggs.

For one 9-inch cake:

Ingredients:

1 pound best quality semi-sweet to dark chocolate

½ pound (two sticks), unsalted butter (European 83% butterfat recommended)

9 large eggs, room temperature, separated

¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar

Cocoa powder (Valrhona or Guittard are good choices), for dusting the cake

Confectioners’ "10X" sugar, for dusting the cake

Procedure:

1.    Preheat oven to 300º F. Lightly butter and flour (see above note regarding flour, if this is Passover, you can use matzo cake meal) a 9-inch springform pan, then line the bottom with parchment paper.

2.    Combine chocolate and butter in a bowl placed on top of a pot of barely simmering water. Melt, stirring occasionally. Be CAREFUL that NO STEAM enters the chocolate/butter mixture. When just about completely melted, remove bowl from the simmering pot and stirring occasionally, bring the mixture to room temperature. Don't rush. Bring it to room temperature.

3.    Combine egg yolks and ¾ cup of the sugar in the bowl of and electric mixer, fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix for about 4-5 minutes, until when the paddle is lifted, ribbons fall from the paddle.

4.    In another bowl (or, if you don’t have another bowl, transfer this mixture to a LARGE bowl and THOROUGHLY wash this bowl and attach the whisk to the electric mixer), whisk the egg whites with the 1 additional tablespoon of sugar until soft peaks are made when you lift the whites with the whisk. This should take about 3 or 4 minutes.

5.    Now you’re ready to fold!

6.    Fold 1/3 of the cooled chocolate mixture into the egg yolks. When fully incorporated, fold 1/3 of beaten egg whites, until fully incorporated. Repeat this procedure twice more, until you’ve completely folding all ingredients together, ending with the egg whites.

7.    Carefully pour the batter into the prepared springform pan. Don’t ‘pat it down’ much. Bake until the edges are firm and center is somewhat ‘puffy’, but still soft, about 20-30 minutes. The center will appear to be unbaked.  This is important: do not over-bake the cake or you will undo your folding and your cake will be dry and unremarkable (don't be afraid, be careful and concentrate. You're the boss.)

8.    Cool on a rack, then release the springform.

9.    Dust with a layer of cocoa powder, followed by a layer of 10X (that’s industry talk for confectioner’s sugar), a second layer of cocoa and a final layer of 10X.

1.    Serve at room temperature. A thin slice is all you need. You can serve ‘as is’, with a dollop of whipped cream, with some crème anglaise, or with a berry or two.

Serves 10-15 (or more)

Pumpkin Muffins

Pumpkin Muffins
Tiffany Ludwig, Adapted by Blue Heron Kitchen

Time to bake in orange! 

Here’s the first of some pumpkin recipes.

In a recent conversation, my son commented that pumpkin muffins are so 90’s.

In strong defense of pumpkin muffins, and mild defense of the decade, here's some supplemental 90's support: Bill Clinton, The World Wide Web was invented, Ruth Bader Ginsburg was appointed to the Supreme Court, Autocar named the Mini Cooper “The Car of the Century”, and California passed Proposition 215 (medicinal marijuana). How about slap bracelets.

Still too retro? Update your pumpkin muffin wardrobe with 3” ring molds or use financier molds or try baking mini loaves. After all, muffins are basically colonized loaves.

These pumpkin muffins are simple to put together and bake, are dairy-free, have the added nutritional bennies of whole wheat flour without the dense texture or dominating taste of whole wheat, and if they’re not devoured straight away, you can throw them into a Ziploc bag or a plastic container and freeze them.

First time, I made them ‘plain’. They’re great without any additional ingredients. Second time, I played around more and used a 2:1 ratio of white whole wheat to unbleached all-purpose flour and I added walnuts and organic dried apricots. As the temperature outside decreases, the urge to bulk up my muffins increases.

This lovely, warm spice profile complements the squashiness of pumpkin. Grating your own nutmeg is worth the investment in a little nutmeg grinder. Microplane makes a tiny spice plane grater good for nutmeg or cinnamon, or you can buy a simpler, more traditional nutmeg grinder for a few dollars. Buy whole nutmeg and store in a closed container. Grate some fresh nutmeg and take a whiff. You’ll be astonished! (My Spice Sage is a solid resource that  that currently offers free shipping! I urge you to check out this site!) Take a whiff after you’ve grated some fresh nutmeg. You’ll be astonished!

If you don’t have white whole wheat flour (resources: King Arthur Flour, or, Wegman’s, a local supermarket in mid-atlantic NY, NJ, PA, MD and MA), use unbleached white, or combine white and wheat!). I like white whole wheat flour because it (for the most part) doesn’t impart the strong whole wheat flavor to the finished product, while still offering those perk nutrients that whole grains tout.

Finally, generally, I like to double recipes. If you’re making the effort, why not get the most bang for your buck? Not all, but many baked products freeze well; and almost everyone loves to receive something home-baked. Say it with a muffin!

If you’re using canned pumpkin (I use organic canned pumpkin, which is 15 oz….not quite 2 cups, but as they say in music-speak, “close enough for jazz”), one can will suffice for a doubled recipe.

peace and love,

jane

Yield: 12 Muffins or 24 Mini-Muffins

Ingredients: (c.=cup, tsp.=teaspoon) 1 ½ c. white whole wheat flour (or unbleached white or a combination of white and whole wheat flours) 1 tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. baking soda ½ tsp. salt 2 eggs, size large, at room temperature 1 c. sugar 1 c. pureed pumpkin or ‘other’ pureed orange squash or pumpkin 1/3 liquid c. vegetable oil – canola or grape seed 1 ½  heaping tsps. cinnamon ½  tsp. ground ginger ¼  tsp. ground cloves ½  tsp. ground nutmeg (freshly ground is best!) optional additions of nuts, dried fruit or chocolate (see below) optional: Turbinado or finishing sugar for tops Procedure: Preheat oven to 350°F. Rack should be in the middle of the oven. Prepare muffin tray(s) with either muffin cup liners or cooking spray. (12 muffins or 24 mini-muffins) Combine the dry ingredients: flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and spices; and blend with a whisk. Either by hand or in your Kitchen Aid (or ‘other’ electric mixer), whisk together the eggs and sugar until light yellow. (The beater blade will work fine in the electric mixer.) Add the vegetable oil and pumpkin and mix until smooth. Add the dry ingredients mixing until just combined. Over-mixing = tough muffins. Fill all the muffin cups to an equal height. (Optional: sprinkle a little coarse, finishing or Turbinado sugar on the top of each before baking.) Bake until golden and a wooden pick inserted into the center comes out clean, 15-20 minutes for “minis” and 25-30 minutes for full-sized muffins. Optional additions: Throw in ½ to 1 c. chopped nuts of your liking, like walnuts or pecans. (Always toast and cool your nuts first. Place them on a cookie sheet and toast them in a preheated 350º oven for about 6-8 minutes, until you can just smell them. Take care to not let them burn. If they burn, don’t use them – they’ll ruin whatever you’re baking. Cool before chopping.) Toasting nuts brings out their natural oils and makes a difference in the finished product.  Try tossing some into a salad! Add some dried fruit, like raisins or chopped apricots or dried cherries. You can combines some with the nuts. Try ½ c. dried fruit and ½ c. chopped nuts, combined. If you’re a chocolate lover, fold in ½ - ¾ c. chopped excellent quality chopped chocolate, or some excellent quality chocolate chips. I like Guittard or Ghirardelli. Mini-muffins? … one or two chips might become the muffin … so, if your chips are bullying your batter, chop them up. You’re the boss.