Cranberry Bread (with ginger!)

Cranberry Bread

Blue Heron Kitchen

            After comparing at least six cranberry bread recipes, I left one out for reference.  That one was Bernard Clayton, Jr.’s Complete Book of Breads.  I’m always happy that I own this book. The original is out of print, but you can get used copies for $.01. Not a bad price.

            Orange is a natural with Cranberries, which are also called Mossberries (I learned that from Bernard). Use organic Valencias (at room temperature, you’ll get a good squeeze out of them). If you don’t have fresh oranges on hand, use store bought OJ. But for gmo’sake, buy organic. Bob’s Red Mill whole-wheat pastry flour is great. If you want to go all out whole wheat, get yourself a five-pound bag of King Arthur’s White Whole Wheat. It’s my new favorite flour. Just be sure that when you measure out, you scoop and level with a light touch. Don’t pack it in. European style butter (83% butterfat makes a difference. It trumps American butter in every way. Look for Plugra or Cabot brand.  In the New York Metro area, find them at Fairway or better markets.  You can use French butter, but it’s a fortune. Save it for the sablés.)  Be confident in your butter. If it’s not fresh, it will ruin your baking. Ask yourself this: would I spread this on toast I’m serving to my convalescing best friend? If the answer is “no”, throw it out. (Truc: freeze butter.  Keep it away from other things in the fridge. Or, pretend you’re European and just leave it on the counter. Nobody’s dead in Europe from leaving his or her butter out.) 

I used pecans and candied ginger in this loaf.  You can use one, both or neither. Try other nuts or other dried fruit. Toast your nuts first (most often in baked goods – it allows the oils to surface and alters the product and taste … really.) Spread them in a single layer and toast them in a preheated oven at 350º F. for about 8-10 minutes or until you can just begin to smell them. Be vigilant when you toast nuts. If you burn them, you’re really out of luck.  Cool them before you chop them. If you toast a larger quantity than is called for in the recipe, store them in a jar. They’re delicious.

Wash and dry the cranberries thoroughly, discarding any funky ones.  I never look forward to chopping them by hand because they’re unruly.  Put them in the food processor and give them about 8-10 quick pulses and you won’t have to go chasing escaped cranberries rolling all over your counter and floor.  Use a medium grate for the orange rind. Microplane Zester has a really high-end box grater.

This recipe uses almost one full bag of fresh cranberries. You’ll have some leftovers.  You can freeze them or throw them into your food processor or blender with a piece of fresh orange, rind and all, (about ¼ to ½  of one), some nuts, currents or raisins or dried cranberries and sweetener (Agave syrup or stevia) for a quick little relish.

Ingredients:

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

2 cups whole-wheat pastry flour or King Arthur’s White Whole Wheat Flour

1 ¾ cups granulated sugar

1/4 tsp. orange oil, optional

1 Tbsp. baking powder

1 tsp. baking soda

1 tsp. ground ginger (if you’re adding candied ginger – if not, it’s your call)

2 tsp. pure vanilla extract (I use Baldwin’s. always)

2 tsp. kosher salt

4 oz. unsalted butter, cut into small pieces and frozen for about 10 minutes (or longer)

1 ½ c. freshly squeezed orange juice (no need to strain – but remove any seeds)     (approximately 4-5 juicy oranges will render enough juice)

2 Tbsp. orange zest (zest of one large orange – just the rind, not the white pith)

2 eggs, size large, room temperature

1 cup chopped, toasted pecans

½ cup candied ginger, organic preferred

2 cups (approx. 8 oz.) fresh (or fresh/frozen) cranberries, coarsely chopped

Turbinado sugar for sprinkling on top of loaves (optional)

Procedure:

PREPARE:

Brush 2 large or 1 medium and a mélange of ‘other’ sized loaf pans with melted butter, vegetable oil, or a combination of the two. For an easier release, dust the pans with some flour. Be sure to give a good zetz (do it in the kitchen sink) to remove all flour that isn't lightly clinging to the butter or oil that you just used to prepare your loaf pans. You can do this step last once you see how much batter you have. But do have pans available and at hand so that you can get the batter into the oven asap. Once the dry meets the wet stuff, the rising agents will be activated. Think about how much you hate sitting in the waiting room or how great you looked when you boarded the flight.

1. Preheat oven to 350º F.
2. In the bowl of a food processor, coarsely chop the cranberries (or chop them by hand if you’re adventurous.) Set aside.
3. Chop the candied ginger into ½” pieces and mix with the chopped pecans. Set aside.
4. In a separate bowl mix orange zest into the measured out sugar. If you’re using the orange oil, add that too. Set aside.
5. In a large liquid measure cup, measure out the orange juice and crack the eggs directly into the orange juice. To this, add the vanilla extract. Whisk together. Set aside.
6. In the bowl of a Kitchen Aid mixer, or in a large mixing bowl, whisk together flours, baking powder, baking soda, salt, ground ginger (if using) and sugar that has been infused with orange zest (and if you’re using it, orange oil).
7. With the paddle attachment (or using two knives or your fingers) add the very cold butter and mix until the mixture resembles coarse cornmeal.
8. Dump in the orange juice/egg/vanilla extract mixture and mix only until the ingredients are wet.
9. Add cranberries, nuts and candied ginger all together. Mix, either by hand or with the paddle attachment, folding in very quickly, until just incorporated. Less mixing means better cake.
10. Pour a little more than ½ way into each prepared pan.
11. Bake anywhere from 30 minutes to 1 hour, depending upon the size of your loaf pan and the heat of your oven, until a wooden toothpick or a metal cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean.
12. Cool on rack before releasing from pans. You may have to run a sharp knife around the edges.
13. After releasing from pans, cool completely and wrap well.
14. Try to wait until the next day to eat these. The flavor will develop and improve.
15. These refrigerate and freeze well.

Happy autumn!

peace and love,

jane

Mother's Day Mandelbrodt (Mandelbread)

Happy Mother's Day!
(look at the ducks!)
peace, love and mandelbrodt.

My Grandma Rae made the best mandelbrodt.  It had no butter.  I don't think anything she baked had butter. She kept a kosher home, and by omitting butter, her desserts could be eaten any old time.

She used Mazola corn oil (and other horrible non-dairy fats like margarine and something called "Spry".)

This recipe uses oil and is much closer to hers than the richer biscotti recipes I've published here.  Corn oil isn't as healthful as, say, canola oil, but I love to bake with it.  It's sweet. In the absence of butterfat, The taste of the almonds are pronounced by the oil rather than 'softened' by the roundness of butterfat.

These are hard to stop eating.  They're simple and taste like their ingredients.

Grandma Rae's greatest pleasure was to feed the people who came to her home.  She was my best Grandma, and I miss her all the time (you can read more about her in my "möhn kichel" recipe, another oil-based and brilliant basic Jewish "tea cookie".) It's almost mother's day, and the photograph of my in my toque is a gift from my beautiful daughter.  She embroidered it for me.  It says, "Blue Heron Kitchen" and it sports a heron on its brim.  Thanks, sweetheart!

Mandelbrodt (Mandelbread)

Adapted from Arthur Schwartz by Blue Heron Kitchen, in honor and memory of my Grandma Rae

Ingredients:

4 cups unbleached all purpose flour

1 Tbsp. baking powder

1 tsp. kosher salt

4 eggs, size large, at room temperature

1 1/3 cups granulated sugar

¾ cup corn oil (or any tasteless vegetable oil)

½ tsp. pure almond extract

1 ½ tsp. pure vanilla extract

Zest from one large orange

2 cups coarsely chopped almonds (see almond trucs below)

Procedure:

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or Silpat and preheat oven to 350º F.

Almond truc: Valencia almonds are great to use.  Organic ones are even better.  The better and fresher the nut, the better the cookie.  Release the oil! Toast the nuts on a cookie sheet until you can just begin to smell them.  Be careful they don’t burn.  If they do, you’ll end up with mandelburndt.  Let them cool first and then chop them.

In a large bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder and salt.  Set aside.

In the bowl of a Kitchen Aid or ‘other’ electric mixer, preferably fitted with a fabulous beater blade attachment, beat the eggs well, until light in color. 

Add the sugar, a little at a time, continuing to beat until the mixture is thick and creamy.  This will take a few minutes.

Add the oil (I use corn oil, because my Grandma Rae used Mazola corn oil for everything), extracts and orange zest to the eggs.  Beat briefly until blended.

Dump in the flour, all at once and mix on lowest speed until barely incorporated.  Add the almonds and mix until just blended.  Finish by hand.

Turn out onto floured flat surface and cut into four equal parts. 

With as little handling as possible (use flour and a large spatula to manage the dough), form into four loaves, approximately 12” x 2 ½” – 3” in width, depending upon how wide you prefer your cookies, two to a sheet, lengthwise.  Space them at least 4” apart.

Bake approximately 30-45 minutes, transferring sheets top to bottom, front to back, half way through the first bake, until golden.

Remove from oven and let cool on rack for a few minutes, leaving the oven on.

With a serrated knife, slice on diagonal, approximately ½” thick (or ¾” if you like your cookie thick) and return the cookies, slice sides down, to the sheets. 

Bake for 5 minutes, turn cookies over and bake 5 additional minutes.  Finished cookies should be golden brown.

Cool the cookies on racks.  When completely cooled, store in an airtight container.  These will taste even better the next day (if you can wait).