Chocolate "Gold Coast" Globs

After a foot of snow blanketed Colorado last week, shutting down businesses and schools and with the arrival of snow and sleet, accented by a few cracks of thunder in New York City today, I suggest: Soyez prêtes! ('Be prepared!'). 


In kitchenese: mis en place (pronounced: meeze ehn plahsuh) 


So, when it comes to the baking of these fantastic globs that fall somewhere between a brownie a cookie and a "chunky", the situation is that everything you're going to need is pre-measured and ready, like you had an imaginary apprentice doing all the dirty work while you were in make-up getting ready for the shoot.* 

*You can't tell me that you never forgot something like the sugar or,say, doubled the butter and not everything else (as I just did - I'm serious).


Stay warm and dry. Eat a little chocolate. And wherever you go, "soyez prêtes"! 

Chocolate “Gold Coast” Globs

Adapted from Judy Rosenberg’s Baking book by Blue Heron Kitchen

Here’s another great recipe that I’ve added a couple of my own twists to that originates from Judy Rosenberg’s All-Butter (etc.) Baking Book. I’ve learned from her publicist that she’s about to come out with a new book soon. I can’t wait to get my hands on it!

It is CRITICAL that you allow for the chocolate and butter mixture to cool sufficiently or else you will wind up cooking your eggs.

Use excellent quality chocolate. It matters. I use Scharffen berger unsweetened chocolate and Jacques Torres’ dark chocolate discs, chopped, for my ‘chocolate chips’. These links are suggestions. You can purchase Scharffen berger chocolate in better stores, such as Fairway Markets and Jacques Torres has his own stores in NYC - in DUMBO, Chelsea Market and other locations too. Look for these products and discover your own chocolate treasures in your own necks of woods. Or go online and order through Amazon.

I have used both walnuts and pecans, but you can stick to one. If you love one and hate the other, knock yourself out. Today, I burned my walnuts, so my cookies had only pecans and they were pretty great.

Always toast and cool your nuts before you bake. Toast them at 350º F. for about 6-8 minutes, until you can just smell them. Watch them carefully. If they burn, they’re toast. You can play around and try a combination of chopped chocolate, nuts and even some dried fruit.

The globs freeze very well. So, if you’re starting to panic about Thanksgiving, you can bake these now and freeze them between sheets of parchment or wax paper (I love wax paper) in plastic containers, tins or freezer bags. (For anyone with a chocolate kupf, they’re stupid good frozen.)

Ingredients:

5 oz. semisweet chocolate (Scharffen berger or another good quality chocolate)

3 oz. unsweetened chocolate (same as above)

4 oz. 83%, European style butter, at room temperature (Plugra brand is a good one)

¾ c. all-purpose, unbleached flour (King Arthur or Bob’s Red Mill are fine examples)

1 tsp. baking powder (I use Rumford - sans aluminum!)

½ - ¾ tsp. kosher salt (depending on how much salt you want with your chocolate)

2 eggs, size large, at room temperature

2 tsp. pure vanilla extract (I use Baldwin’s vanilla – always)

1 Tbsp. instant espresso powder

¾ cup granulated sugar

¾ c. semisweet chocolate ‘chips’ (or chopped excellent quality, such as Jacques Torres discs)

1/3 c. chopped pecans (first, toasted and cooled)

1/3 c. chopped walnuts (first, toasted and cooled)

Procedure:

Here is where the mis en place brings you great satisfaction.

Carefully measure out all of the ingredients for this recipe.

You’ll just dump one thing in after another and this recipe will feel like you ripped off the box top of like, a box of Ghiradelli Ultimate Fudge Brownies.

1.                     Put the semi and unsweetened chocolates and butter in a stainless bowl, large enough to accommodate them; and set it atop a barely simmering pot of hot water. Take care that NO steam or hot water gets jiggy with the chocolate/butter mixture. Stir and melt. Remove to COOL.

2          Preheat oven to 325º F. and line 3 baking sheets or ½ size sheet pans or jelly roll pans with parchment paper. If you don’t have parchment paper (you should get some), grease the sheets with melted butter or brush them lightly with vegetable oil. Set aside.

3.         In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside.

4.         Using an electric mixer, beat the eggs, vanilla and coffee powder until blended.

5.         Add granulated sugar and blend until thick. 1-2 minutes.

6.         Add the cooled , melted chocolate/butter mixture and blend another minute or two. Scrape down the bowl as necessary. (If you have a silicone beater blade, this won’t be necessary!)

7.         Add the flour mixture, mixing on low speed, until just incorporated. No more than that, please. Fold in the chocolate ‘chips’ and nuts by hand or with the mixer, on low speed.

8.         Drop the dough by rounded spoonfuls (I use a small measured scoop), leaving a couple of inches between, onto the prepared sheets.

9. Bake, rotating the sheets,  between the racks, turning them too, about 10-13 minutes, until they rise slightly and form a thin crust. Immediately remove the cookies from the sheets (you can leave them on the parchment) and cool on a rack.       

Yield: 24-36 cookies, depending on how globular you go                 

Mushroom Ragout

"Ragout" (French) means "to revive the taste". It's fall, y'all! That means more layers - of clothes, of blankets, and more layers of tastes too - spices, ingredients and heartier fare.

So, I'll begin with Mushroom Ragout. This can be served as a main course with salad, bread and some red wine. Unsweetened chocolate finishes and thickens the sauce to a warm, velvety and rounded dish that pairs well with polenta (try Bob's Red Mill organic polenta. The most extensive selection (other than online) can be found at Fairway Market, where an aisle is devoted to Bob's Red Mill! Locally, in Long Beach, this brand of polenta is available at a reasonable price at Wild By Nature in Oceanside on Long Beach Road.

Stop at Dan Madura's at the Long Beach Farmer's Market Wednesdays (and sometimes, he's there on Saturdays!) for unusual and delicious mushrooms. This recipe calls for a pound of mixed wild mushrooms, which can get pretty pricey - so, since we're not all made of money, use some conventional mushrooms, say half, and then go to town with some of Dan's more exotic varietals. Try his organic garlic - it'll reshape and deepen your love for garlic. Please: freshly grind your nutmeg. And for other spices, invest in an inexpensive coffee grinder and use it just for spices. Grind your own cardamom and white pepper together in it. It'll clear your sinuses and you'll be amazed at how aromatic this dish becomes from a whir of your little grinder. Try buying spices at Patel Brothers - there are several. This link is for the one in Flushing. There is one on Hillside Avenue near the Cross Island Parkway too - it's very bright, clean and tons of fun to shop there. The low cost of spices alone is worth it - and you can buy frozen samosas, fresh pistachios for a ridiculously low cost, almonds, raisins, tandoori mixes, and last time I was there, I bought an idli steamer! (Then can buy all the chutneys your pantry can hold - from tamarind to mint to coconut - and don't forget roti (breads) for dipping too!) In New York, go down to Lexington Ave. and 28th Street. You can market for your provisions there. Check out Kalustyans while you're down there (123 Lexington Ave.). Plan on spending a couple of hours there. 

Here's some dirt on the fungi - keep them in your fridge in brown paper bags - never in plastic bags. In plastic bags, they'll get slimy and disgusting. In paper bags (buy lunch bags!), they'll keep for close to a week.

Wild Mushroom Ragout

Adapted from Alice Medrich’s bitter sweet

Ingredients:

1 lb. mixed wild (and cultivated) mushroom, such as shitake, cremini, hens of the wood, portobellos, chanterelles, cêpes

About 2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, finely minced

2/3 c. dry red wine such as Cabernet, Côtes du Rhone or Malbec

Scant 1/8 tsp. nutmeg (freshly ground), ground cardamom and white pepper

A pinch or two of ground cloves (if you like cloves - I omit them, because I only like cloves in Indian food and very little else)

¼ tsp. kosher salt

¼ c. water

1 Tbsp. grated unsweetened chocolate* (Scharffen Berger is a good choice)

Procedure:

Keeping mushrooms separate, rub or quickly rinse, dry and then slice to about ¼ inch thick. Discard tough stems.

Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat and add a tsp. of olive oil.

Add one type of mushroom and sauté, stirring frequently until browned. Scrape them into a bowl and set aside. Repeat this with each mushroom, scraping them into the same bowl. If needed, add a tsp. of olive oil to the pan before you sauté them.

Remove pan from heat and let cool slightly. Return to the burner and over medium-low heat, add 1 Tbsp. olive oil and sauté the minced garlic until translucent, but not brown.

Return mushrooms and any accumulated liquids from them to the pan, add the wine, spices and salt and simmer for a few minutes to evaporate the alcohol in the wine.

Add ¼ c. water, cover and simmer for 6-10 minutes to cook the mushrooms and release their juices into the sauce. Uncover and cook until the sauce is reduced and slightly syrupy. Stir in the chocolate until it melts, smoothing the sauce.

Taste and if necessary, correct seasonings.

Serve over fried or soft polenta or serve over egg noodles.

Yield: Serves 4 as a small main course or 4-6 as an appetizer

*You may substitute 2 ½ tsp. unsweetened, good quality cocoa powder for the unsweetened chocolate