Rhubarb Streusel Loaf

Rhubarb Streusel Loaf

Adapted from The Sweeter Side of Amy’s Bread

It’s spring, and there’s rhubarb at the market. Ingredients that you can purchase at the market are followed by an “*” asterisk.

Choose narrow, firm stalks, and stay away from the leaves, which are poisonous. Unlike many rhubarb recipes, which often pair this distinctive vegetable with other flavors, most notably with strawberries, this moist, delicate and fragrant loaf pays homage to the unique and distinctive flavor of fresh rhubarb. Serve this sweet and tart bread, sliced, with some sweet, French butter and if you like, perhaps, a little jam*.

What doesn’t get devoured the day it’s baked, wrap well in plastic and store in the refrigerator. This also freezes well.  Wrap in plastic, then foil.  (Label!) Pull this out when you crave a taste of spring - if you can wait that long.

Ingredients:

3 ½ c. fresh rhubarb* (approx. 21 oz. or 600 grams)

Streusel Topping:

¾ c. Old-fashioned rolled oats (I use organic, but this isn't essential - it's just better)

1/3 c. + 3 Tbsp. unbleached all-purpose flour

1/3 c. + 4 Tbsp. light brown sugar

¾ tsp. kosher salt

6 Tbsp. (3 oz.) unsalted butter, cold, diced (I use European style butter which is 83% butterfat.  Some brands are "Plugra" and "Cabot".  I love "Cabot". You can buy either at Fairway.)

Loaf Batter:

6 large eggs*, room temperature

1 ¼ c. (10 oz.) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

2 c. granulated sugar

1 c. + 1 Tbsp. whole milk (I use organic milk - but you don't have to.  I prefer it.)

1 Tbsp. pure vanilla extract

1 ½ c. Old-fashioned rolled oats (Organic ... see above note)

4 ¼ c. unbleached all—purpose flour

1 Tbsp. baking powder

2 tsp. kosher salt

½ tsp. cinnamon

¼ tsp. nutmeg (preferably, freshly ground)

1/4 tsp. mace

¾ c. golden raisins

(It's so easy to grate your own nutmeg, and it makes a huge difference. You can buy whole nutmeg at Fairway or Penzey's,which used to be somewhere in the Midwest, but is now all over the place, including Grand Central Market, Huntington, LI, and Norwalk, CT. You can mail order from them, and they have the BEST storage jars for about $1.00! If you don't know about Penzey's and you hate rhubarb, you'll be happy that you read this recipe. And if you grate your own nutmeg, you'll never buy 'ground nutmeg' again, guaranteed.)

Procedure:

Prepare two 9 x 5 loaf pans or the equivalent capacity of smaller loaf pans with either release spray (canola), or for a finer finish, melt unsalted butter, and using a pastry brush, coat the pans. Truc: For a lovely color and finish, flour the pans by sprinkling a small amount of flour in each pan and tapping it around and turning it upside down over the sink and giving it a good zetz against your palm or side of the sink to remove excess flour.  

Preheat oven to 350º and move oven rack to center of the oven

Wash, dry and trim the rhubarb and cut into small pieces, about ½ inch long. If the stalks are thick, then halve them down the middle. Set aside.

Prepare the streusel: In a bowl, combine all ‘streusel topping’ ingredients, adding the cold butter and mixing it together with fingertips until small, pea-sized pieces are created. Work quickly so the butter stays cold. Place prepared streusel topping in fridge while you prepare the batter for the loaves.

In a separate, large bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg and mace. Set aside.

In the bowl of a Kitchen Aid or electric mixer (or by hand), beat together: eggs, melted butter, sugar, milk and vanilla extract. Stir in the rolled oats and let soak for 5 to 10 minutes to moisten.

Add wet ingredients to dry and fold in gently until almost moistened. Add rhubarb and raisins, mixing until just incorporated, going the extra mile to not overmix. (You'll thank me when everyone kvells about how light your loaf is.)

Divide the batter between the prepared pans, and spread the streusel topping between the loaf pans, (Spread it over the batter, otherwise, the part that isn’t close to the batter won't adhere well to the loaf…but don’t make yourself crazy.)

Bake for 55 to 65 minutes, rotating the loaves once after 30 minutes. A toothpick or cake tester, inserted into the center should come out clean, and the tops should be golden.

Baked loaves should rest on a wire rack for 15 minutes. Then carefully turn them out from their pans and let them cool completely before slicing them, or the slices will break apart when cut (which wouldn’t be the end of the world).