Mother's Day Mandelbrodt (Mandelbread)

Happy Mother's Day!
(look at the ducks!)
peace, love and mandelbrodt.

My Grandma Rae made the best mandelbrodt.  It had no butter.  I don't think anything she baked had butter. She kept a kosher home, and by omitting butter, her desserts could be eaten any old time.

She used Mazola corn oil (and other horrible non-dairy fats like margarine and something called "Spry".)

This recipe uses oil and is much closer to hers than the richer biscotti recipes I've published here.  Corn oil isn't as healthful as, say, canola oil, but I love to bake with it.  It's sweet. In the absence of butterfat, The taste of the almonds are pronounced by the oil rather than 'softened' by the roundness of butterfat.

These are hard to stop eating.  They're simple and taste like their ingredients.

Grandma Rae's greatest pleasure was to feed the people who came to her home.  She was my best Grandma, and I miss her all the time (you can read more about her in my "möhn kichel" recipe, another oil-based and brilliant basic Jewish "tea cookie".) It's almost mother's day, and the photograph of my in my toque is a gift from my beautiful daughter.  She embroidered it for me.  It says, "Blue Heron Kitchen" and it sports a heron on its brim.  Thanks, sweetheart!

Mandelbrodt (Mandelbread)

Adapted from Arthur Schwartz by Blue Heron Kitchen, in honor and memory of my Grandma Rae

Ingredients:

4 cups unbleached all purpose flour

1 Tbsp. baking powder

1 tsp. kosher salt

4 eggs, size large, at room temperature

1 1/3 cups granulated sugar

¾ cup corn oil (or any tasteless vegetable oil)

½ tsp. pure almond extract

1 ½ tsp. pure vanilla extract

Zest from one large orange

2 cups coarsely chopped almonds (see almond trucs below)

Procedure:

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or Silpat and preheat oven to 350º F.

Almond truc: Valencia almonds are great to use.  Organic ones are even better.  The better and fresher the nut, the better the cookie.  Release the oil! Toast the nuts on a cookie sheet until you can just begin to smell them.  Be careful they don’t burn.  If they do, you’ll end up with mandelburndt.  Let them cool first and then chop them.

In a large bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder and salt.  Set aside.

In the bowl of a Kitchen Aid or ‘other’ electric mixer, preferably fitted with a fabulous beater blade attachment, beat the eggs well, until light in color. 

Add the sugar, a little at a time, continuing to beat until the mixture is thick and creamy.  This will take a few minutes.

Add the oil (I use corn oil, because my Grandma Rae used Mazola corn oil for everything), extracts and orange zest to the eggs.  Beat briefly until blended.

Dump in the flour, all at once and mix on lowest speed until barely incorporated.  Add the almonds and mix until just blended.  Finish by hand.

Turn out onto floured flat surface and cut into four equal parts. 

With as little handling as possible (use flour and a large spatula to manage the dough), form into four loaves, approximately 12” x 2 ½” – 3” in width, depending upon how wide you prefer your cookies, two to a sheet, lengthwise.  Space them at least 4” apart.

Bake approximately 30-45 minutes, transferring sheets top to bottom, front to back, half way through the first bake, until golden.

Remove from oven and let cool on rack for a few minutes, leaving the oven on.

With a serrated knife, slice on diagonal, approximately ½” thick (or ¾” if you like your cookie thick) and return the cookies, slice sides down, to the sheets. 

Bake for 5 minutes, turn cookies over and bake 5 additional minutes.  Finished cookies should be golden brown.

Cool the cookies on racks.  When completely cooled, store in an airtight container.  These will taste even better the next day (if you can wait). 

NABUCCO´S "VA PENSIERO SULL´ALI DORATE"

The chorus of the Hebrew slaves. peace, love and kugel, jane

Apple and Matzo "Molly" Kugel

Here's a great matzo kugel dessert recipe from someone I've lost touch with.  But this is a recipe that shouldn't get lost.

This is a sweet and you should pardon the expression, Pesachdic, dessert that should be made at least once during the Passover holiday.

It's a grand finale to any seder table.

If you celebrate, have a sweet Passover.

peace, love and Molly Kugel,
jane

MOLLY'S APPLE-MATZOH KUGEL

Rick Bernstein

(double the recipe, double the fun)

 4 large apples, Granny Smith or any tart apple, cored and cut into medium dice (could be some pears too)

 1/2 cup light brown sugar

 1/4 cup orange juice

 6 plain matzohs

 8 eggs

 1 teaspoon salt

 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

3/4 cups sugar

 1/2 cup (8 tablespoons) butter , melted

 1 cup golden raisins

 1 cup dried apricots, medium, chopped

 4 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces, for casserole topping

 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

 2. Toss the apples with the brown sugar and orange juice, set aside in a medium bowl.

 3. Break the matzoh into 2- to 3-inch pieces and soak in 1 cup of warm water until soft but not mushy. Set aside.

 4. While the matzoh soaks, beat the eggs with a wire whisk in a large bowl until blended. Add the salt, sugar, cinnamon, melted butter, raisins, and apricots.

 5. Squeeze the liquid from the softened matzoh and add the matzoh to the egg mixture with the apples. Stir the kugel well and pour into a lightly greased 2 1/2-quart casserole dish or a 10x14-inch pan. Dot the top of the kugel with the 4 tablespoons of butter.

 6. Bake the kugel for 1 hour. Cover the top with foil if the top begins to become too brown early in the baking. Remove the kugel from the oven and cool to room temperature.

Cook's Tip: The kugel can be made 2 days ahead, cooled, and refrigerated, covered. Bring to room temperature and reheat in a 350°F oven.

Passover Mandel Bread

Gut Yontif!!!

Here is the best Passover Mandel Bread recipe.  Sure, it's a contradiction in that it isn't 'twice baked', but Passover is a contradiction in and of itself.  It's a restrictive holiday because for observant Jews, any food that begins to hint at rising or fermenting is simply not part of the program.

These cookies taste great.  You'll need to go to the Kosher for Passover aisle in your supermarket and pick up some matzo CAKE meal.  Pick up some potato starch too.  If you don't observe this holiday, these are the two ingredients you'll need to try out this seasonal cookie recipe.  Try Ghiradelli chocolate chips or chop up some great quality chocolate.  Nuts are optional (another pastry arts perc).

Passover Mandel Bread

Blue Heron Kitchen

CREAM TOGETHER:           2 cups sugar

                                                ½ pound (two sticks), unsalted butter

ADD:                                       6 eggs, room temperature, size large, one at a time,

                                                beating well after each egg is added (It's important to beat the eggs. 

                                                They're the sole leavening agent.)

SIFT TOGETHER:                 2 ¾ c. matzo cake meal

                                                ½ tsp. kosher salt

                                                ¾ c. potato starch

Fold dry ingredients into egg, butter, sugar mixture

ADD:     1 cup chopped nuts (toast and cool prior to chopping - this brings out their natural oils and makes the whole product taste better) and 6 oz. chocolate bits or chopped excellent quality chocolate (You can omit the nuts, but add more chocolate!)

Form into 4 - 2” wide [about ½-3/4” high] loaves [two loaves per cookie sheet – width, not length] and sprinkle with cinnamon sugar mix.

Bake on cookie sheets at 350 degrees for 45 minutes [less], slice while warm into 1/2” pieces.

Pistachio-Cardamom Biscotti and Pork Rinds

Time to share a favorite recipe.  I just brought these to a party, and I think they were a hit. I like it when people take a bite and they taste something that's unexpected or new.  It's fun to watch their expressions.


This one's like that, and a winner, I think.  If you want these cookies to be as great as they really are, you'll need to grind cardamom pods.  So, just go buy them.  Go to Patel Brothers (several stores - check online) or any Indian grocery store or Penzey's (in Grand Central Station or Carle Place, LI or online) and buy green (there are also black) ones.  You need a spice grinder.  (Buy an inexpensive coffee grinder and use it just for spices.) You can find shelled, unsalted pistachios at Trader Joes (not my favorite store, but they carry them) or at an Indian grocery store. Bob's Red Mill is my favorite for the medium ground cornmeal.  But if you can't find it, get that Indian Head stuff in the little yellow bag.  It's quite good, for "supermarket" cornmeal.

Pistachio Cardamom Biscotti

Blue Heron Kitchen, adapted from Dorie Greenspan’s Baking From My Home to Yours

Ingredients:

1 ½ c. all-purpose flour

1 ½ tsp. baking powder

¼ tsp. kosher salt

½ c. medium grind yellow cornmeal (Bob’s Red Mill)

4 oz. unsalted butter, room temperature (83% butterfat, European style is best)

1 cup granulated sugar

2 eggs, size large, room temperature

1 tsp. ground cardamom (freshly ground, preferred)

¾ c. unsalted pistachios, toasted, cooled and chopped well

1 tsp. lemon zest

2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Variation:  Last time I made these, I omitted about 1/4 cup of pistachios and added 1/2 cup dried, tart cherries, chopped in half.  Really good.

Procedure:

Oven rack should be in the lower third or center.  Preheat oven to 350º F.

Line baking sheet with parchment or Silpat.

In a medium sized bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, salt, ground cardamom and cornmeal.  Set aside.

In a Kitchen Aid mixer or with a hand held mixer, cream butter and sugar until very smooth.

Add eggs, and continue to beat, scraping down bowl as needed.  (With a silicone beater blade, you’ll laugh at the thought.) Beat until light, smooth and creamy.  Then, beat in extract and zest.

Reduce speed to low and add the dry ingredients until just incorporated. 

Add the pistachios and mix just to blend.

Form two rough logs, 12” long and about 1 ½ “ wide. Use the spatula to help you. The logs should be more rectangles than domes.  But be sure they aren’t too flat.  They will spread. Truc:  If you work with your hands, dampen them slightly. 

 

Bake for about 20 minutes or until they logs are golden, but still soft and springy to the touch.  Transfer to a rack and cool for at least 30 minutes (or more).  Truc: The longer you cool them, the easier it will be to slice them for the second bake.

If you turned off the oven, bring it back to 350º (if you're new at this, you'll have better control over the second bake if you bake them at 325º.) 

Transfer the logs to a large cutting surface (use a big spatula) and slice them about 3/4” thick.  Stand them upright on the sheet and bake them for about 15 more minutes, until they’re golden and firm. Be careful that they don't get too brown. Burnt nuts spoil the party. 

This will yield, more or less, 4 dozen cookies.

Cool, store in tins.  Theoretically, they keep.

Cantuccini

My men friends are all wrapped up in watching other men play with balls. At the close of the week, my principal emailed us two green words: "Go Jets!". I assumed he meant the team and not the gang. So, in the spirit of the season, my cheer is: "go balls!".  Truth is, I'm looking forward to baseball season - it's rhubarb time.  So this evening, I'm punting my Cantuccini recipe out.  Besides, you don't need my advice when it comes to melting cheese on things.

Cantuccini

Nick Malgieri – adapted by Blue Heron Kitchen

2 c. (9 oz.) all-purpose flour

¾ c. (5 oz.) granulated sugar

2 tsp. baking powder

½ tsp. cinnamon

1/2 tsp. kosher salt

1 ½ c. (8 oz) unblanched whole almonds, toasted and cooled (toast at 350º F. degrees until fragrant, cool)

3 large eggs, room temperature

1 Tbsp. pure vanilla extract

Position rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350º F.  Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or Silpat and set aside.

Put the flour, sugar, baking powder, cinnamon, and salt in a large bowl and whisk to mix thoroughly. Stir in the toasted and fully cooled almonds. (You don't need to chop them!)

Whisk the eggs and vanilla together in a small bowl, until slightly frothy, then stir them into the flour mixture.  The dough may seem dry at this point, but it will come together as it is kneaded. You can do this by hand, but if you use a mixer, use the paddle attachment.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead, folding it over onto itself until it is smooth, 1 to 2 minutes.  Divide the dough in half and shape each half into a 12” log. Gently press down to flatten them until they are about 2” wide and 1” high. 

First Baking: Bake the logs for about 30 minutes, ot until they are slightly risen and firm to the touch.  Slide the logs, parchment paper and all, off the baking sheet and onto a cooling rack.  The logs must be completely cool before you can continue. The longer, the cooler, the cooler, the better they will slice.  The best is to cool them, wrap them and proceed with the second baking the next day. Allow at least one hour to cool.

Second Baking: When the logs have cooled, preheat the oven to 350º F.

Working with a sharp, serrated knife, cut the cooled logs diagonally into 1/4” thick slices.  Place the sliced cookies cut side down on the pans and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the biscotti are golden.  Cool on the pans.

Storing: These biscotti will keep for up to a month (if they last) in an airtight tin or plastic container. 

One Small Voice.MPG

Happy New Year from Blue Heron Kitchen and my many small nine year old voices.
peace, love and my other passion, music,
jane

Bread Pudding and the flue

It's cold in my house this morning.  I'm hoping the fireplace person comes tomorrow. (where's dick van dyke?) My flue won't shut and it's 24º F. outside.  

A fine antidote is bread pudding (and a sweatshirt).  Here's this morning's creation, a sourdough country bread pudding, with sautéed golden delicious apples, studded with golden raisins. I'm bringing it to a party we're having at work for a woman who's going to have a baby.  I've already wrapped up some cream cheese pound cake I had in the freezer, but my freezer is bursting with bread. (Is it just me?)

It's easy and it makes the place smell like apple heaven.  And now it's warm in here!

 

Golden Bread Pudding

Blue Heron Kitchen

Ingredients:

8 oz. firm, good quality bread, such as 'country' sourdough, baguette, just about anything from Balthazar, Bread Alone, Orwasher's, Grandaisy Bakery, Amy's Bread - you get the idea, right? - cut into approx. 1" cubes.  Stale is good.  Toast it for about 6-8 minutes.

2 Golden Delicious Apples

1 oz. (2 Tbsp.) unsalted butter (I used 83% European style - Cabots or Plugra are two brands you can find in the supermarket - Fairway carries both.)

1-2 Tbsp. sugar + a few drops of fresh lemon juice for the sautéed apples

6 Tbsp. (additional) granulated sugar 

3 cups whole milk (I use organic)

3 eggs + 1 egg yolk, size large, room temperature

1/2 c. golden raisins

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

1 tsp. cinnamon

1/2 tsp. freshly ground nutmeg

cinnamon sugar for the top

Procedure:

Preheat oven to 350º F.

Set oven rack to the lower third of oven.

Butter and dust, with granulated sugar, the inside of a 2 quart Pyrex casserole.

Have a roasting pan that the casserole will fit comfortably inside to use as a "bain-marie" (a water bath - you're going to pour hot water about 1/2 way up the side of the casserole so it's warm and cozy while it bakes and so it turns into a lovely pudding instead of a brick.)

Place toasted bread cubes in a large bowl.

Sauté diced apples  

in butter, adding sugar and lemon juice to taste, until cooked, but still firm.  Remove from heat.

Add apples and raisins to cubed bread.

In a small bowl, add the 6 Tbsp. granulated sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg, whisking it together. Add to the bread/fruit mixture.

In another bowl, whisk together milk, whole eggs, egg yolk (freeze the egg white for another use in a small plastic bag) and vanilla extract, creating a 'custard'.

Pour dry bread/fruit/sugar and spice mixture into the prepared baking pan and pour the custard over the bread.  Press the bread down into the custard, making sure to soak it all.  

Sprinkle the top with some cinnamon sugar.

Place the casserole in a roasting pan and place in the oven.  Carefully pour hot water into the roasting pan about 1-2 inches up the side of the casserole

and bake the bread pudding for approximately 1 hour and 10 minutes, give or take, until a sharp knife comes out clean.

Remove from the bain-marie and cool on a rack.

This is best served the same day, warm.  Serve it 'plain', with some crème anglaise or some yoghurt for breakfast! 

peace, love and warmth,

jane

69, Mussels and Eggs

Late at night, a middle aged man nudges his wife.  He whispers, "Honey, how about a little 69?".  Shocked and taken aback, her only response is , "whaddya mean, 69?"  


"Lobster cantonese!".  


this is my 69th posting.


I felt like I was Julie of Julie and Julia tonight, trying to poach an egg.  Not so easy (until you get it).  Some trucs:  Add white vinegar to the boiling water.  Crack the egg very close to the water.  Don't mess with it.  Don't overcook it.  If someone ... like your son ... does it perfectly, let them do it for you.  But, the world is a perfect place when you eat a poached egg over some asparagus ... with some shaved parmesan on top.  Next time, I'll add an anchovy.  


Oh, the mussels ... my daughter makes perfect moules. So I figure I'm covered: my son, the eggs, my daughter, the mussels and me, 69.

Möhn River

Möhn Kichel is in the oven at Blue Heron Kitchen.
peace, love and poppy seeds,
jane